Hiking in the Greek Islands

Jasas is a word you often hear in Greece as a greeting.

When the days started to feel long and dark, we decided to head to the Greek islands to see our friend Melina and her Greek-Danish family. And it was a good decision!

Hiking above the village of Vathy (Kalymnos) © Guillaume Lorimier

We spent the first three nights in a traditional white house with a large garden full of orange and olive trees. The temperature in November is very pleasant, around 20 degrees. We made the most of it by eating outdoors almost all the time! But surprises can happen too, such as the big storm on the second day. Luckily, Melina, our local guide, had also planned some indoor activities! We learnt how to prepare Greek dishes: stuffed vegetables and vine leaves filled with rice. Greek cuisine features plenty of vegetables: tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes, peppers… and, above all, olive oil!

A typical Greek breakfast on the terrace © Guillaume Lorimier

During our trip, we also tried lots of Greek specialities. Locals often gather in a taverna over traditional meze: an assortment of small dishes. We learnt that the menu often lists only some of the dishes the restaurant serves. Rather than choosing a dish from the menu, Greeks often ask the restaurant for recommendations. Greeks go to restaurants both to eat and to enjoy time with friends or family, and sharing a dish rather than ordering one each is very common. On the menus, you can find traditional moussaka, Greek salad with olives and feta, souvlaki, seafood, tzatziki… and, of course, pitta bread! Dessert is less important than in France, and there is not much choice. Sometimes, though, the restaurant offers a complimentary dessert.

Greek salad and tzatziki ©Guillaume Lorimier

The Greek islands and their coves are known for sunshine and beaches, but there are also beautiful, easy and accessible walks. Bear in mind that hiking routes are not as well signposted as in France, and the trail markings are very subtle. These routes often pass over a summit or mountain pass where you will find either a typical little blue-and-white Orthodox church or the ruins of an old castle. You can also smell the characteristic Mediterranean plants growing along the paths.

The start of a hike and a typical Greek Orthodox church © Guillaume Lorimier

Hiking on Dikaios - Kos © Guillaume Lorimier

Watching everyday life, you see people getting around on scooters, goats and cats walking along the roadsides, and fruit and vegetable sellers with their little trucks… Life on the Greek islands is quite different from life on the mainland. Islanders can get food straight from their gardens, but access to drinking water is not always straightforward. Sometimes, people have to fetch water from the village fountain. You can see that tourism, fishing and farming are the main sources of livelihood on the Greek islands. Outside the main season, there are fewer tourists, and several restaurants and places to stay close their doors. There are also fewer boats serving the islands.

Typical seaside houses in Greece © Guillaume Lorimier

Sheep perched on the mountainside © Guillaume Lorimier

At the end of our trip, we took an overnight boat towards Athens, arriving at the port of Piraeus. In the afternoon, we visited Athens and its historic Acropolis. The Greek capital brings together historic buildings dating back to ancient Greece and modern buildings. The following day, we joined a walking tour with a local guide. He showed us Athens' main neighbourhoods and historic sites, telling stories of Greek heroes and gods along the way. After the tour, it was time for us to return to France, and we headed to the airport, which is well served by the metro.

Amphitheatre at the Acropolis in Athens ©Guillaume Lorimier

The Parthenon, Athens ©Guillaume Lorimier

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