Cycling from Porto to Lisbon: five days along the Atlantic coast

In autumn, I set out to scout the cycling route along the Portuguese coast between Porto and Lisbon. Five days of cycling took us from the quays of the Douro to the narrow streets of the capital, past Atlantic beaches, pine forests and villages, with stops to enjoy the local food. Here is what stayed with me from this trip.

Porto © Matthieu Offredi

From Porto to Aveiro, back to the Atlantic

Porto and Lisbon have very different atmospheres. Both cities have grown near the mouth of a river: the Douro for Porto and the Tagus for Lisbon. It will take us five days of cycling to get from one city to the other.

Before leaving our starting point, we ride along the Ribeira quays beside the Douro. We pedal gently, taking time to admire the colourful houses on the opposite bank. A few kilometres along a lovely cycle path soon bring us to the Atlantic shore. The landscape opens up and golden sandy beaches come into view. They will rarely be far from us throughout the trip.

Just beyond Porto © Matthieu Offredi

This route is still little known among cycle travellers, but the municipalities we pass through along the way have already taken the initiative to develop an extensive network of paths for walking and cycling. Our route alternates between cycle paths near seaside towns, stretches through peaceful pine forests and boardwalks across the sand dunes.

Further south, we reach Aveiro, whose history is closely tied to salt and maritime trade. Its canals are navigated by moliceiros, traditional boats with painted bows and sterns.

Aveiro © Matthieu Offredi

Covered market © Matthieu Offredi

We return to the coast, passing through Costa Nova, known for its old palheiros with their brightly coloured stripes. Several of these buildings, once associated with fishing, have now become holiday homes.

Fishing village of Costa Nova © Matthieu Offredi

Pine forests, beaches and villages of the Silver Coast

We now make our way through a pine forest along a smooth, pleasant cycle path. Despite the resemblance, we are indeed in Portugal, rather than the Landes.

Pine forest in Mira © Matthieu Offredi

We discover long sandy beaches facing the Atlantic. Further south, cliffs become part of the landscape too.

The Silver Coast © Matthieu Offredi

We pass the village of São Pedro de Moel and discover plenty of opportunities to explore from there, on foot along kilometres of boardwalks or by bike on lovely cycle paths.

The Silver Coast © Matthieu Offredi

One breathtaking panorama follows another, so it makes sense to keep the camera close at hand. It is always easier to make a quick stop when travelling by bike or on foot than by car. That said, sometimes we have to resist putting a foot down if we want to keep clocking up the kilometres.

Praia de Paredes da Vitória © Matthieu Offredi

Nazaré, São Martinho and Óbidos

We find ourselves above Nazaré, in the Sítio neighbourhood. Maritime traditions remain very much alive here, while Praia do Norte has become famous among surfers for its giant waves.

Nazaré Church © Matthieu Offredi

Nazaré Beach © Matthieu Offredi

Further south, the sheltered bay of São Martinho do Porto offers a different atmosphere, with water that is generally calmer than on beaches exposed to the Atlantic.

São Martinho © Matthieu Offredi

For our last stop before Lisbon, we head a little higher, where a journey back several centuries awaits us. This is Óbidos, a small medieval town and one of the best preserved in Portugal. We venture into its maze of cobbled lanes and white houses, letting ourselves get lost. We finish our visit with the castle and, of course, a walk around the ramparts.

Óbidos © Matthieu Offredi

Ending the journey in Lisbon

Our journey ends in Lisbon. We are back in the bustle of the city. Trams and elevadores help us get from one neighbourhood and hill to another.

Lisbon © Matthieu Offredi

Visiting Lisbon means starting with its many miradouros (viewpoints), then letting yourself wander through its different neighbourhoods, each of which comes alive at a different time of day. We naturally begin our visit in the elegant Chiado district, with its cobbled streets, cafés and bookshops. Our efforts to capture a lovely photo of the famous colourful façades clad in azulejo tiles are rewarded. Another striking detail is the way the streets have been paved: it is careful work done by hand, and we frequently come across workers laying the stones.

The Bairro Alto district in Lisbon © Matthieu Offredi

When it is time for a sweet treat, it is easy to find a pastry shop nearby. This is a chance to try the local favourites, pastéis de nata: pastries with a flaky crust and a filling somewhere between flan and pastry cream. They are tempting, but bear in mind that they are far from the country’s only delicious pastries.

As evening falls, our plan is to stroll through the Alfama district with no particular destination in mind. Around a stairway or at the junction of cobbled lanes, we discover small traditional restaurants, a few pieces of street art and the distant sound of fado that makes us pause to listen.

The Tagus in Lisbon © Matthieu Offredi

Our journey ends with a sunset on the banks of the Tagus. To plan the same route, see the practical guide to our cycling trip from Porto to Lisbon, with the latest itinerary and service details.