Landing in Istanbul and taking off again from Santorini: those were the only two certain elements of our trip. By combining our constraints (time and budget) with our desire for a change of scenery followed by rest, this itinerary—or rather, this sketch of an itinerary—seemed like a good idea to us. After confirming (approximately, thanks to a few blogs) that it would be possible to connect the stages by public transport, we were completely on board!
Here then is the account of our itinerant journey, from Turkey to the Cyclades, by public transport (except for arrival and departure, of course).
Spoiler: everything went smoothly. As always, public transport is not your best ally if you’re in a hurry (especially in Greece), but it delivers on its promises when it comes to savings, change of scenery (especially in Turkey), and encounters.
Between the vibrant atmosphere and the wonders of Istanbul, the ancient ruins of Pergamon and Naxos, and the welcoming villages on both sides, these two weeks were a true adventure that still makes us nostalgic today.
Visiting Istanbul: a city between two worlds
We had read that Istanbul had this geographical peculiarity of being at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, without really knowing how it would manifest on the ground. Upon our arrival in Istanbul’s liveliest district (Eminönü), we were struck by the city’s buzz, the impressive size of the mosques, and a surprisingly peaceful atmosphere despite the crowds: in the squares people chat, on the Galata Bridge, men fish.
After a quick visit to the Spice Market (rather touristy), night fell. The streets came even more alive: street vendors selling corn and chestnuts, illuminated kebab stalls, and merchants of all kinds.
The next day, we visited the must-sees:
- Hagia Sophia, majestic and imposing, witness to more than 1500 years of history. A former Byzantine basilica turned mosque, then museum, it fascinates with its immense dome and golden mosaics.
- The Blue Mosque, with its six minarets and Iznik tiles with floral motifs, offers, despite the influx of visitors, a serene atmosphere in its inner courtyard. Its visit is not always possible; during prayer times entry is forbidden.
In the afternoon, we strolled through the cosmopolitan district of Galata. A former medieval Genoese quarter, the old paved streets are nowadays mainly walked by tourists and expatriates settling in cafes and shopping in vintage boutiques. Nevertheless, a detour to Galata is worthwhile and allows you to grasp the blend between Byzantine past and bohemian modernity in Istanbul.
At the end of the day, we made our way to the Ortaköy district along the Galataport Promenade. This lively neighbourhood, on the shores of the Bosphorus, is known for its nineteenth-century mosque, built during the Ottoman Empire. In the square, people chat, eat, and await the next boat.
To return, we took a night ferry. The view of illuminated Istanbul in the darkness remains one of our most beautiful memories.
On the third and final day, we set out to discover the Balat neighbourhood, with Jewish, Greek and Armenian influences. Its alleyways with colourful houses and its cafés give it a village atmosphere.
From there, we walked to the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent, a masterpiece by architect Sinan, built in the 16th century. Its vast courtyard and its panorama over the Golden Horn make it a majestic and peaceful place.
We continued with a stop at the Grand Bazaar, a true labyrinth where you can find everything, from precious carpets to fragrant spices.
To conclude our Istanbul stay, we headed to Kadıköy, a lively and student neighbourhood located on the Asian shore. It is considered Istanbul’s alternative neighbourhood: street art, live music, independent bookshops. A stroll through the night market followed by a quick kebab on the bar street (Barlar Sokağı) shows what it’s all about.
After a good night’s sleep, we were ready for the next part of our journey.
A route from Istanbul to the Aegean coast
From Kadıköy, we took a boat to Bandırma, then caught several buses. Turkish bus stations are like their cities: bustling, yet efficient. Organisation is helped by the kindness of Turkish people towards tourists. Once you find the right bus, the hardest part is over, and comfort awaits.
We arrived in the evening at Ayvalık. After the hustle and bustle of Istanbul, this seaside village, popular with Turkish people at weekends, seemed to us quiet, authentic and welcoming.
Two days later, we headed to Pergamon, by bus. The ancient city, perched on a hill, was one of the greatest intellectual centres of the ancient world. You can still visit the ruins of Trajan’s temple and a breathtaking ancient theatre, with views across the entire valley. Its library, famous in antiquity, rivalled that of Alexandria.
We then took our last Turkish bus to reach Kuşadası. Unlike Ayvalık, Kuşadası has nothing authentic about it: it is mainly an entry point to the Greek islands and is located near the ancient site of Ephesus. After a brief visit to the town, we boarded a ferry to Greece.
First steps in the Cyclades: Samos and Ikaria
Our first Greek stop: Samos, birthplace of Pythagoras. After exploring its bustling port, we took a bus to Karlovasi, a quiet port where you can already feel the typical atmosphere of the Greek islands.
Two days later, we set sail for Ikaria, an island where time seems to slow down. No bus on arrival, we hitchhiked to reach Armenistis, a remote village, far from mass tourism. We discovered beaches with turquoise waters and a peaceful way of life.
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From Naxos to Santorini : the beauty of the Cyclades
Next stop: Naxos, with a short stopover in Mykonos. We had just enough time to walk around a few streets near the port — not very interesting and crowded with cruise ship passengers.
Arriving in Naxos by ferry, on the other hand, was magical: the boat approached the port slowly, facing whitewashed houses, revealing a maze of narrow streets behind them.
After dropping off our things, we explored the capital, then headed to the Gate of Apollo to admire a stunning sunset.
In the following days, we explored the island:
- The Sanctuary of Dionysus, dedicated to the god of wine and festivities.
- The village of Halki, renowned for its citron liqueur distilleries.
- Filoti and Apeiranthos, two perched villages, with a medieval atmosphere.
- Coming back down to the sea, we followed a scenic road to Moutsouna, a charming small port once linked to marble extraction.
Final leg of the journey: Santorini
The postcard image of Fira, its white houses clinging to the cliff face, is even more striking in person.
Arriving by ferry allows you to grasp the full scale of the cliff, and the bus ride up to the town is an adventure in itself.
The sunset over the caldera was a perfect conclusion to this journey.
Want to discover #[Greece](/greece “Greece”) in a different way? Between hiking and cycling tours, each route offers a unique experience. For more ideas on exploring Greece, see these travel collections:
- The Greece with family
- The Greece in September
- The Greece in October
