Between volcanoes and the gentle Mediterranean way of life: a journey into the heart of mythology and nature
This time, we head to southern Italy to discover the Aeolian Islands, which take their name from Aeolus (Aiolos in ancient Greek), the god of the wind. This destination offers a blend of hiking, gastronomy, history and volcanology, among other things. The Aeolian Islands have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2000. The archipelago comprises seventeen islands formed by a vast volcanic complex, only seven of which are inhabited. Five islands will be the focus of our attention: Vulcano, Filicudi, Salina, Stromboli and Lipari.
We board a boat in Milazzo, in north-eastern Sicily. Our first stop is Vulcano, the southernmost island. The village of Porto di Levante is spread out between the island’s main active volcano and another volcanic cone that forms the Vulcanello peninsula. To the north, we can see the coastline of nearby Lipari.
View from the island of Vulcano
The last eruption of the Fossa di Vulcano crater was in 1890. Although now dormant, the volcano remains active through fumaroles, jets of steam and sulphurous mud. It is nevertheless one of the most dangerous volcanoes on the planet. Its eruptions, characterised by very powerful explosions, have even given their name to the type of eruption known as “Vulcanian”.
Vulcano: Climbing a legendary volcano
A wonderful hike awaits us on this island, naturally taking us up the active volcano beside the village and around its crater, approximately 500 m in diameter. The panoramic view is breathtaking.
Crater of the volcano on Vulcano
Once we reach the summit, the horizon opens up across the neighbouring islands. We gaze at the famous fumaroles escaping through cracks and vents in the volcano’s sides. Before us lies “yellow” ground, carpeted with tiny sulphur crystals. Whether viewed from a distance at the summit or up close, just a few centimetres away, the sight is striking.
Volcano on the island of Vulcano
Filicudi, between wild nature and forgotten villages
The next stage of our adventure takes us to the quiet island of Filicudi. With no real village to speak of, houses are scattered throughout this unspoilt landscape. Some say you have to be an artist or a hermit to stay and live here.
The island of Filicudi
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Along the paths, we discover old villages such as Zucco Grande, now uninhabited and in ruins. Accessible only by footpaths, it has neither electricity nor running water. Some people have begun restoring it. In the upper part of the village, we discover a restored traditional building with a magnificent portico supported by columns overlooking the Mediterranean.
Traditional building on the island of Filicudi
Salina: Discovering the green heart of the Aeolian Islands
Next comes the island of Salina, the green lung of the Aeolian Islands, with its distinctive twin volcanic cones. Roads run all across the island, making it fairly easy to explore on foot, by car or even by public transport. Once known for salt production, the island is now renowned for its capers and wine. While you are here, try a glass of Malvasia, the local sweet white wine, accompanied by a dessert.
The village of Valdichiesa and Monte dei Porri on the island of Salina
Before leaving the island, we recommend taking a swim at sunset beneath the famous cliffs of Pollara. It is sure to be one of your fondest memories!
The seafront at Pollara on the island of Salina
Stromboli: the constantly erupting volcano
After these few peaceful days, we head towards the island of Stromboli. The island relies mainly on tourism, and it is naturally fairly easy to attract curious visitors when you have Europe’s only continuously active volcano. Its summit rises to 924 m, but with its submerged section extending down to 2000 m below sea level, it is easily comparable to Etna at 3350 m. Let’s explore this mysterious island, where countless past eruptions have adorned the shores with beautiful black volcanic sand.
The village of Stromboli
Will we have a suitable weather window to climb the volcano and get close to these astonishing bursts of lava? This is often the first question on our minds when we arrive on Stromboli. To make the ascent, you must be accompanied by a mountain guide or a volcanology guide. As soon as we leave the village, we can hear the volcano rumbling. The climb begins amid vegetation and bamboo before continuing over more barren terrain, among rocks and sand.
Climbing the volcano on Stromboli
Once we reach the area near the main crater, we witness an extraordinary spectacle, with explosions of lava and volcanic bombs hurled more than 100 m into the air. The experience is even more striking at night. With 200 to 300 eruptions a day, Stromboli is rather generous and leaves its spectators thoroughly satisfied.
Stromboli erupting
Lipari: history and culture at the heart of the Aeolian Islands
After savouring this fleeting moment of magic, we set sail to the south-east towards Lipari, the capital of the Aeolian Islands. It is the largest and most populated of the Aeolian Islands. It enjoyed a period of prosperity thanks to the extraction of obsidian, a glassy volcanic rock formed when silica-rich lava cools. The island has a rich history, having been ruled by various peoples, notably the Greeks and Romans. For archaeology enthusiasts, Lipari is home to a superb archaeological museum tracing the history of the archipelago, whose galleries are fascinating to explore.
The town of Lipari
When we think of the Aeolian Islands, we picture volcanoes, black sand beaches, a sea of pure blue, lava caves and lush vegetation. Each island deserves a visit, even if only for a little while. The archipelago enjoys a temperate climate, with hot summers and mild winters, making it possible to visit all year round. If a volcanic adventure appeals to you, you will appreciate the relaxed way of life on the Aeolian Islands just as much as we do.
The Aeolian Islands bring together volcanoes, sea crossings and village life. For more travel ideas combining nature and culture, explore Italy.
Article written by
Matthieu has a wealth of experience: he's a cross-country ski instructor, a mountain leader and an experienced globetrotter! He's an excellent tour organiser, and you'll find him again if you choose to go on a guided… Read more
