We set off from Killarney under a rather grey sky, but it feels so pleasant after the 40° heat in Lyon! The trail takes us through the park. And with all this moisture, the paths sometimes leave little choice about which way to go!
Trail and forest in Killarney National Park © Dominique Boyer
We climb through a forest with a magical atmosphere, eventually reaching the guesthouse in Blackvalley. It is run by a lovely Irish woman who gives us a very warm welcome.
Horse in Ireland © Dominique Boyer
Stone wall in Ireland © Dominique Boyer
Between low stone walls and lush greenery, we set off for Glencar, through the mountains and at the foot of Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, which means black peaks in Irish. Our two friends near the guesthouse watch us go. Sometimes we lose our way among the ferns and in fields of blue sheep! Some are even blue, white and red. The Rowan Tree guesthouse was truly exceptional for its welcome and meals. We feel like shouting “Come on, Les Bleus!”, but well, they are sheep. Their captain does look rather impressive, though.
Colourful sheep in Ireland © Dominique Boyer
We set off for Glenbeigh, still under a grey sky but with clear views, and the approach to the town was magical, with a shaft of sunlight falling on the spit of sand, watched by a curious onlooker! Oh, those fuchsias make us envious! We crossed a pass with a fantastic view.
Approaching Glenbeigh from above © Dominique Boyer
Have you spotted the unexpected visitor in the photo? © Dominique Boyer
Fuchsias © Dominique Boyer
From Glenbeigh to Caherciveen, we follow the coast from high above the sea, with beautiful light that changes constantly. Looking back, we have views towards Dingle and Killarney. We can see a viaduct, a remnant of the railway.
Viaduct and views towards Dingle and Killarney © Dominique Boyer
After a rest day, we set off for Waterville in surprisingly strong wind and a little rain! They call it a churning wind. And Charlie Chaplin seemed to be poking a little fun at us as we arrived in colourful Waterville.
Charlie Chaplin statue // It’s windy! © Dominique Boyer
We had a lovely evening in a lively pub, then headed back under this very threatening sky.
Waterville © Dominique Boyer
We head for Caherdaniel, finally under kinder skies, sometimes even blue, and with a rainbow too! In the distance, we can see the Skellig Islands. You can visit them, but it is so expensive that it puts you off. And above all, they get booked up well in advance. We arrive at Derrynane Bay House, a B&B run by some very friendly French hosts. This was not planned, but the change did not bother us, as it was well organised. Once again, we eat in a pub, which is very lively in the evening, with Guinness flowing freely. Did you know that a million pints of Guinness are consumed in Ireland every day?
Livestock farming in Ireland © Dominique Boyer
Contrasting light © Dominique Boyer
Our next stop is Sneem. We follow the coast at first, then climb above it, enjoying some beautiful viewpoints. The town is very colourful.
Sneem © Dominique Boyer
And our penultimate stop before returning to Killarney: Kenmare. We followed the sea and passed some unusual churches! We walked under threatening skies and through lush green forests.
By the sea © Dominique Boyer
Lush green forest and a souvenir photo © Dominique Boyer
Kenmare was celebrating the return of its victorious footballers! The Kerry team. Two sports are played here: hurling, with a stick and a ball the size of a tennis ball, and Gaelic football, which is quite surprising. Ciarraí, Kerry.
Kerry team supporters © Dominique Boyer
Gaelic football players with the cup © Dominique Boyer
And the final stage, from Kenmare to Killarney. We really enjoyed this return journey, including a stretch we had already walked, though it feels different in the opposite direction! We definitely recommend climbing to the summit of Torc, as the view is breathtaking. You can also see part of the route covered over the previous days, as well as the lake at Killarney.
View from the summit of Torc © Dominique Boyer
Ready to set off on your own walking adventure around the Ring of Kerry in Ireland?
If this account of walking around the Ring of Kerry has inspired you and you would like to discover the Ring of Kerry, Killarney National Park and Ireland’s wild coastline for yourself, you can find this trip in a 8-day or 12-day version with Grand Angle.
And for more walking trips in Ireland, find all our options here.
