Ireland
Capital: Dublin
Population: 4757976 inhabitants
Irish traditions
The Irish pub
The pub is probably one of Ireland’s best-known institutions. It immediately brings to mind warm, welcoming surroundings where convivial company mingles with malty aromas…
Here, you order and collect your drinks at the bar, which can be difficult to reach at busy times. Be patient the first time you order a Guinness, as it is poured slowly in two stages. You pay as soon as you are served. At lunchtime, and sometimes in the evening too, pubs serve generous, varied food: soups, sandwiches or pub grub, a hearty meal at a reasonable price.
Unless you are particularly unsociable, you will rarely sit alone with your pint for more than 10 minutes. Important! If Irish people invite you for a drink, you do not pay for the first round, and above all, you should not insist… It is customary to drink as often as the Irish person you are with. A useful tip: if you are not used to beer or usually drink it in moderation, start with half pints (or glasses in Éire). For thirsty drinkers, a pint costs less than two half pints.
Mythology
Irish mythology holds a prominent place among European myths. It is the oldest to have been written down in the language of the people. The earliest texts date from the seventh century AD. The foundational poem of Irish mythology is the Táin Bó Cuailnge, known in English as The Cattle Raid of Cooley. Its warriors of the Red Branch are the equivalent of the Knights of the Round Table. In the days when people gathered around a storyteller by the fireside on long winter evenings, telling the Táin, along with a few accompanying tales, took an entire week! The central story concerns a war between the kingdoms of Ulster and Connaught. The accompanying tales include one of the most beautiful love stories in European literature, one of the Three Sorrowful Tales of Ireland: the story of Deirdre (“sorrow” in Gaelic). Full of twists and turns, it weaves together love, prophecies, dreams, rivalries, intrigue and battles.
Religions and beliefs
As you probably know, Ireland is a country with a strong religious tradition. You will have plenty of opportunities to see this for yourself: statues of the Virgin Mary along the roadside, large congregations at Sunday Mass and, on some radio stations, a minute’s silence for evening prayer.
Every year, the climb up Croagh Patrick draws hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, and the tiny island of St Patrick’s Purgatory (Donegal) can welcome up to 2500 penitents for three nights of prayer and mortification.
To understand such fervour, we need to look back a little. Christianity took hold gently and did not dismiss the ancient sacred sites and figures as diabolical relics. It absorbed them. The Catholic religion became a symbol of Irish resistance to the Anglican invader. Daniel O’Connell founded the Catholic Association and, in 1843, gathered nearly 1 million people at Tara (the former capital of the Celtic kings, another blend of Celtic and Catholic traditions); finally, the Constitution of 1922 has a decidedly clerical character. The prominent role of religion is, of course, closely linked to Ireland’s conservatism on social issues. Homosexuality was not decriminalised until 1993, divorce has only been legal since 1996, and abortion has only been possible since 2013… but only when the mother’s life is in danger!
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