The Giants' High Route - Alta Via No. 1 - Aosta Valley

Laurent Comte - Grand Angle guide - tells you about his 14-day trek in Italy on one of our few level 5 hiking trips - difficult: The Giants' Circuit on Foot_. The longest, the highest, the most authentic: “The Giants' Trek” earns every superlative. This magnificent, unspoilt route remains wild, running between 2000 and 3300m, passing through 34 villages and the 16 valleys of the Aosta Valley, a French-speaking area closely tied to the history of Savoy, now an autonomous region of Italy._

This account has been divided into 2 articles. This is the second part, covering Alta Via No. 1. If you haven’t read it yet, start with Alta Via No. 2 - The Giants' High Route.

Alta Via No. 1: Meeting the giants

Day 1: Gressoney-Saint-Jean - Vieux Crest Refuge

A mountain pass, lakes and old chalets

+1387/-989 15km 8 hrs (4. hrs 30 min) Min. altitude 1531 Max. altitude 2797m

We enter Walser country. These Germanic people arrived during a period of warmer weather in the Middle Ages and settled in this little corner of the Aosta Valley, in the shadow of Monte Rosa. It’s another beautiful day, and we take our time crossing the Pinter Pass, enjoying the sunshine beside the lake below the pass.

On the descent, we catch sight of the Matterhorn and its distinctive silhouette. We pass through the hamlet of Cuneaz, with its traditional chalets. Then we reach the Vieux Crest Refuge, a beautiful collection of old chalets that have been expertly restored. A cosy atmosphere and refined Aosta Valley cuisine await.

Lake below the Pinter Pass © Laurent Comte

Day 2: Vieux Crest Refuge - Crêtaz

What a great Nana!

+1351/-1932 23km 10 hrs (6 hrs 20 min) Min. altitude 1336 Max. altitude 2776m.

In the morning, we descend to the village of St Jacques on the valley floor. We make a brief stop at the village café before beginning the climb to the Nana Pass. The scenery is superb, with the Matterhorn’s glaciers in the background.

Clouds have gathered, and it’s cold at the Nana Pass. The ibex seem motionless, like stone statues… We descend quickly to find milder temperatures. A lovely descent from hamlet to hamlet takes us to the valley floor at the foot of the Matterhorn.

Day 3: Crétaz - Cuney Refuge

Together!

+2312/-1014 23km 10 hrs 45 min (6 hrs 40 min) Min. altitude 1343 Max. altitude 2763m

The day looks gloomy. We wait for a shower to pass, then set off in a light drizzle. In the forest, we disturb a roe deer nibbling on a few shoots. We climb in silence beneath the arch of the dam, then reach the small refuge for a hot chocolate break.

The whole day will be wet. We walk close together through thick fog or pouring rain, then a break in the clouds reveals the landscape. It is a wonderful stage: we cross no fewer than 5 passes and follow magnificent balcony trails. Several barns and Italian bivouac huts provide shelter and a well-earned break. Today we talk less but communicate more, most of the time in silence. I ask “Cazul” to bring up the rear. We walk together as though each of us were part of a single being. I sense everyone’s energy and determination, but also their apprehension, fatigue and doubts.

At the end of our exertions, as the storm seems to approach us like a shark circling its prey in ever tighter concentric circles, we reach a small hanging valley and spot the chapel at the Cuney refuge in its midst. An island in a turbulent ocean! The group’s fatigue and apprehension melt away. We take off our soaked clothes and let the gentle warmth of the refuge envelop us. A night on basic yet comfortable sleeping platforms will restore us, and the return of the sun in the morning will complete the transformation of this somewhat difficult day into one of the finest experiences of the route.

Mist on the Tour des Géants © Laurent Comte

Day 4: Cuney Refuge – Closé

Alpine balcony trails

+555/-1822 17,5km 7h (4h30) Min altitude 1375 Max altitude 2516m

The sun prevails, allowing us to take our time. Below the Col de Vessonaz, a herd of ibex puts on a show. Young males spar with one another.

We take the time to admire these seasoned mountain dwellers, which live at these altitudes all year round. We will reach our overnight lodge in the early afternoon, sharing a local beer before each enjoying a little rest in cosy, intimate surroundings.

Young male ibex © Hélène Le Floch

Alpine balcony trails on the Tour des Géants © Laurent Comte

Day 5: Closé - Ollomont

Through the window (again)

+1300/-1400 19km 7h (4h45) Min altitude 1375 Max altitude 2516m

Today the weather is gloomy again. We decide to leave early to cross the day’s pass before the weather worsens. We climb with enthusiasm as banks of fog veil and unveil the slopes of the pass. The ibex remain calm, untroubled by our quiet presence. The window is in sight. We cross it cheerfully and descend into the valley, where mild temperatures welcome us back.

Ibex on the Tour des Géants © Hélène Le Floch

Day 6: Ollomont - Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses

Wide-open spaces

+1741/-1500 23km 9h20 (6h) Min altitude 1389 Max altitude 2715m

This morning it is chilly. Snow that fell at 2500m covers the peaks, creating a spectacular landscape with a striking contrast between green alpine pastures and white summits. The climb towards the Col de Champillon is gentle and spirits are high. I promise snow at the pass, and everyone is delighted by this little touch of winter on our summer trek, especially as the weather is quite fine this morning.

Before the pass, we stop at the recently renovated and very cosy Champillon refuge, then easily reach the pass, where the snow has almost melted away. I shouldn’t have promised! Never mind: the landscape is vast, we can make out the Grand Combin, and the whole group is swept up in emotion. Some are overjoyed; others turn inward or, overwhelmed by their emotions, shed a few tears. It is also the penultimate day, and each of us knows it: we have made it, and tomorrow we will be in Courmayeur. But we will have to leave the group, this cocoon we have nestled in for these 14 days, and we will also miss the daily effort that makes all the already wonderful landscapes we have crossed feel even more extraordinary. Once again, we share all these feelings and emotions with very few words.

View of the snow-covered peaks on the Tour des Géants © Laurent Comte

Day 7: Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses - Lavachey

The last and most beautiful!

+1471/-1420 22km 9h15( 6h) Min altitude 1587 Max altitude 2929m

This morning, the sky is blue and perfectly clear, like a reward, allowing us to finish this adventure without worrying about the weather. We can still linger, enjoy these landscapes and each other’s company as much as possible, and put off saying goodbye for as long as we can.

And then there is the Col Malatra (from the Latin malastra: difficult passage!). I have no words to describe this pass. As we reach its foot and enter the area of shale, we can make out the path cut into the rocks like a claw mark. For us, it will not be a difficult passage: we approach it like all the other passes, with humility, together, slowly negotiating the final awkward switchbacks to reach the opening. Our gaze leaves the Swiss side and the Combin and turns towards Mont Blanc and the Grands Jorasses. This window onto the Mont Blanc massif makes our heads spin.

We descend joyfully towards the first green meadows for a picnic with a view. Hélène photographs the Mont Blanc cream dessert in front of the massif of the same name, I take selfies with Roger, and then we stretch out the moment a little longer with a short nap before descending to the bottom of Val Ferret and reaching Courmayeur, where the crowds swallow us up…

Mountain massif on the Tour des Géants © Laurent Comte

Snow-covered landscapes on the Tour des Géants © Laurent Comte

The group takes a break with a magnificent view on the Tour des Géants © Laurent Comte

Thank you to Hélène from Brittany (see her account too), Thérèse the actress, Isabelle from Belgium, Laurence the wise one, indestructible Marie-Aline from Quebec, Canada, Marie and Eric from Sarthe and close to my heart, Steven, so British, André from Belgium, Cazul the runner, and Roger the green one!

This first adventure with you will remain unforgettable.

Trekking on Alta Via No. 1 - High Route of the Giants

To bring together every superlative, we have combined the best sections of Alta Via No. 1 and Alta Via No. 2 to create #Le Tour des Géants.

And for more thrills, explore the 5 most difficult hikes in Europe or our long-distance Alpine traverses.

Text and photo credit © Laurent Comte, Grand Angle trekking guide