The Canal du Midi from Capestang to Béziers

The Canal du Midi is one of the greatest engineering achievements of the 17th century, 240km from Toulouse to the Thau lagoon! Sadly, its architect, Pierre-Paul Riquet, never saw his project completed, as he died a few months before work finished. For a long time, the canal helped the region develop through the trade in wine, marble and grain, but it fell somewhat out of use in the 70 with the rise of the railways. Tourism is now giving it a new lease of life. Almost 20 kilometres of cycle paths connect the towns of Capestang and Béziers, giving you plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and discover the surprises the canal has in store.

Canal du Midi © Cécile Hénard

For history enthusiasts, the collegiate church and the Archbishops' Castle in Capestang are well worth a visit. As the sky was clouding over, we decided to set off straight away. Far from the familiar image of a canal lined with plane trees, this stretch of the Canal du Midi alternates between Mediterranean scrubland and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see. Some views even remind us of Tuscany, with their towering poplars!

Village of Colombiers - Canal du Midi © Cécile Hénard

The first village we come to is Poilhes, a delightful place with its little canal harbour and a handful of shops. We then arrive at the Malpas Tunnel, the first tunnel built for navigation. It had to be dug in secret because Riquet had not received permission. Quite the opposite: everyone agreed that it was too dangerous and impossible to build. The authorities ordered him to suspend work several times, before he presented them with a fait accompli: the tunnel had been dug. You can walk through the tunnel, but it is far too narrow to cycle through, so we go around it on the path to the right, which leads over the tunnel. After passing through the village of Colombiers, we come across the finest views of this stage. The light is magical, illuminating the medieval village of Montady on its rocky spur.

Béziers - Canal du Midi © Cécile Hénard

The approach to Béziers is magnificent, with a sweeping view of the city before we draw closer to the Fonseranes locks. We are lucky enough to see two small barges making their way through these nine locks, one after another. 300m to lower the boats by more than 20m, an engineering feat for its time, followed by the canal aqueduct spanning the Orb. Water flowing 12m above another waterway… Welcome to Béziers!

Orb Canal Aqueduct - Canal du Midi © Cécile Hénard

If this stretch of the Canal du Midi has inspired you, take the opportunity to explore the canal on a multi-day cycling trip: with the family from Carcassonne to Béziers or from Toulouse to Agde.