An ocean… of olive trees! From which the elegant spires of cypress trees rise boldly.
In the villages, tiled roofs and walls washed in ochre shades of red or yellow. We are a world away from the white houses with blue shutters of the Cycladic towns and villages. The same goes for the churches, whose delicate bell gables or tall bell towers topped with reddish domes – modelled on the bell tower of Saint Spyridon Church in Corfu – contrast with the white churches and blue domes of Santorini. Yet it is the latter that regularly serve as the emblem of the Greek islands. And yet…
Hiking to the chapel of Agios Simeon © François Ribard
Yes, and yet… Everywhere, the Ionian Islands display their elegant individuality in a Greece too often reduced to its familiar Cycladic image, overlooking the wealth of landscapes, culture and heritage in its other regions. This distinctive character will strike you as soon as you begin exploring Corfu on foot.
Venetian well in Kerkyra © François Ribard
A walk through the town of Kerkyra © François Ribard
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Venetian rule left its mark on the island of Corfu – known as Kerkyra in Greek – whose UNESCO World Heritage-listed capital has all the trappings of a refined Italian city. Everyone knows that the world’s most beautiful cities, in terms of their rich heritage, are Italian! Corfu Town, itself also called Kerkyra in Greek, is no exception. It certainly deserves more than one visit, such is the wealth of its attractions: the narrow lanes of the old town, with strings of laundry stretching across the street from one window to another; historic monuments such as the two Venetian fortresses; churches filled with worshippers from across the Orthodox world; cafés where time seems to stretch out, such as those facing the Liston arcades, built by the French in the early 19th century and modelled on those of the Rue de Rivoli; outstanding museums, including the archaeological museum, whose collections offer another perspective on the island… In short, Corfu Town is an integral part of our itineraries, such is its charm.
Between sea and mountains, in the shade of olive trees whose size will surprise you, the walks reflect this distinctive character. And while some of Corfu’s coastline has suffered from the island’s immense popularity, attracting large numbers of beach holidaymakers, the quieter trails and coves offer a chance to discover another side of the island.
Corfu Trail waymarking © Thomas Praire
From Liapades to Agios Simeon, from Palaiokastritsa to Agios Georgios, or along the famous Corfu Trail that crosses the island from south to north, walking beneath the gentle shade of olive trees, above an Ionian Sea whose colours shift from deep blue to the purest emerald, offers moments of sheer beauty that few destinations can match.
Agios Spyridon Bay in Palaiokastritsa © François Ribard
There are still plenty of beaches for us to enjoy. But these are hidden beaches, such as Myrtiotissa at the foot of Pelekas, or Rovinia, ten minutes from the accommodation in Liapades. As for the vast beach of Agios Georgios, the endpoint of a magnificent stage of the Corfu Trail, it pleasantly combines a few tourist facilities with an easy-going, end-of-the-world tranquillity, preserved by its distance from the main roads.
View from Mount Pantokrator © Sander Hoogendoorn, Flickr
On this island, which rises to almost 1000 metres at Mount Pantokrator, the panoramic views of the coast and mountains of mainland Greece and Albania are impressive. The Corfu Trail offers another way to explore these landscapes on foot.
If your walking route takes you to Paxos, you reach this pocket-sized island by boat from Corfu. Paxos is often referred to by the plural name Paxi, so inseparably is it linked to the small neighbouring island of Antipaxos.
Hiking beneath the olive trees of Paxos © François Ribard
On Paxos, as on Corfu, olive trees are a constant presence, bordered by dry-stone walls at every turn. Here too, there are plenty of opportunities to swim in remarkable coves, where the olive trees themselves provide welcome shade right down to the water’s edge.
Gaios fishing harbour © François Ribard
Paxos and its miniature villages: the delightful harbour of Loggos, the sheltered bay of Lakka, or the lively port of Gaios, whose colourful façades are reflected in the calm waters of the Ionian Sea amid stunning natural surroundings.
Tripitos Arch © François Ribard
On Paxos, hiking takes on the leisurely pace of a stroll, always in the shade of olive trees and past striking natural sights such as Tripitos Arch.
That leaves the incomparable character of the Ionian islanders to mention. Warm, welcoming and friendly, they are renowned throughout Greece for their zest for life and their musical talent. Chances are that, over dinner in a taverna, you will have the opportunity to share those unique moments when singers and dancers come together, as if to celebrate a little of that timeless Greece we love so much.
Did you enjoy this article? Find more holiday ideas in the Greek islands with our selection of nature holidays.
