In Kainuu, days of cross-country skiing unfold among frozen lakes, silent forests and guesthouses. Isabelle spent a week there near the Russian border, with stages that gradually increased in length and a different welcome each evening. Her account describes the cold, breaks around the stove and the details that set the rhythm of this journey from place to place.
Kainuu forms the northernmost part of Finland’s lake district. This was a guided trip; the distances, ice and border zone rules mean that local instructions must be followed.
First tracks around Rajakartano
After a long day of travel, three flights and a minibus transfer through snow-covered forests, our hostess and our guide Maarit welcome us to the guesthouse where we will spend two nights in Rajakartano. Our first outing lets us find our feet again on the nearby lakes and hills. When we return, a cake made by our hostess is waiting for us.
The sauna is already hot, and a hole has been cut in the lake ice for anyone who wants to try an icy dip. After nightfall, a half-hour walk takes us to a reindeer herder’s home. We meet the animals before sharing a meal with reindeer meat on the menu.
Sauna beside the frozen lake and snow-covered forest © Isabelle Pierson
Visiting the reindeer after a beautiful sunset © Isabelle Pierson
Skiing in the Martinselkonen area
The next day, we move to a different guesthouse. After the transfer and dropping off our bags, we put on our skis in the Martinselkonen area. The sun remains behind a veil of cloud; at times, the snow and trees blend into the same shade of white.
Hazy sky above the snow-covered Finnish forest © Isabelle Pierson
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When we stop, we savour the silence. Jarus goes ahead of us on a snowmobile to prepare the trail. During our break, he hands us a kuksa filled with a hot lingonberry drink. In the hut, the stove is lit and the soup is ready. In the afternoon, we follow the edge of the border zone, marked by yellow markers and no-entry signs.
Signs marking the border zone with Russia © Isabelle Pierson
Our guide asks us not to go beyond either the signs or the markers. This precaution still applies today: some areas may be poorly marked, and access to the protected border zone is regulated. Before setting off, check the travel advice for Finland and follow your guide’s instructions on the ground.
In the evening, another sauna awaits us, this time without a dip in the lake, followed by a meal prepared by our second hostess. Through the window, we watch birds coming to peck at the seeds. A great spotted woodpecker plays hide-and-seek. Photographs of bears cover the walls: the area also has wildlife observation hides.
A welcoming meal at our host’s home © Isabelle Pierson
A 23-kilometre stage along the border
On the third day, the sun is brilliant and the temperature has dropped considerably. We follow the border for part of the stage. At 23 kilometres, this is our longest day. After crossing the lakes, we climb into the forest towards the hut where we will have our picnic. The stove is already warming the hut, and the lingonberry drink and soup are waiting.
Picnic around the stove © Isabelle Pierson
Snow and wind on the fourth day
Snow and wind reduce visibility. The trail becomes harder to make out, and we stay together behind our guide. An open shelter and a fire await us for our picnic. We discover that a washing machine drum can serve as a fire pit, then cook our sausages over the fire while sitting on reindeer hides.
We then make our way to our next guesthouse. After the meal, our hostess tells us about the region’s history and shows us photographs of bears that she has taken from the observation hides. The sunset brings the day to a close.
Sunset behind the forest © Isabelle Pierson
A final loop around Arola
On our last day of skiing, the sky is overcast. We return briefly to the border, then turn off for a loop around Arola. When we reach the picnic spot prepared by Jarus, the sun makes a brief appearance.
We then head to a small lake to try ice fishing. Each of us drills a hole with an auger. We return empty-handed; Jarus catches two small fish, which the five of us share at dinner.
On Finland’s cross-country ski trails © Isabelle Pierson
To follow a guided route through the forests of eastern Finland, take a look at our cross-country skiing trip in Kainuu. The page details the required ability level, distances and equipment.
You can also compare our trips in Finland or read the account of an immersive stay during the polar night in Finnish Lapland.
