Eleven days, nearly 3 000 kilometres and a car we sometimes had to push along an icy road: our trip around Iceland in November soon reminded us that exploring the island means following the pace set by its weather. This account brings together the eight experiences that left the strongest impression on us, from waterfalls to hot baths, along with what we would do again on a future trip.
We chose the Ring Road to explore Reykjavik, the fjords, volcanic areas and glaciers. In winter, conditions change quickly: we checked road conditions and adjusted our itinerary every day. If you are planning your stay, allow for that flexibility and choose a few priorities rather than trying to tick everything off. Here are ours.
Route 1, Seyðisfjörður Church and fjord landscapes © Martin Devosse et Remi Trolais
A typical Icelandic landscape © Rémi Trolais
Here is a list (by no means exhaustive!) of all the places we visited, admired and loved…
Waterfalls in Iceland
Waterfalls abound in Iceland, each with its own distinctive features and history. We would have the chance to discover around ten of them. There is, of course, Gullfoss, the “Golden Falls”, Iceland’s most famous waterfall, followed by Svartifoss with its celebrated basalt columns, and Goðafoss, also known as the “Waterfall of the Gods”: here, lawspeaker and mediator Þorgeir Þorkelsson renounced his gods by throwing his religious objects into the falls, showing the way to the Icelandic people, who then decided to convert to Christianity. Less famous but just as spectacular, Dettifoss, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss also belong on your list of waterfalls to see. At Seljalandsfoss, a path takes you behind the waterfall so you can see it from a completely different perspective. But be warned: you are guaranteed a soaking!
Goðafoss and Svartifoss waterfalls © Martin Devosse Cassandre dufour
Bathing in Iceland’s hot springs
Hot springs and bathing are true institutions in Iceland, firmly woven into local life, so we simply cannot miss them. Thanks to the country’s intense geothermal activity, Iceland is full of hot springs with varying temperatures (some close to 100°C and others just right for bathing). We choose to skip the Blue Lagoon, despite its excellent reputation, as it is too touristy and too expensive for our taste. We prefer other springs that are smaller, admittedly, but more intimate and traditional. With the sun setting early at this time of year (around 16:30–17:00), opportunities for outdoor sightseeing in the late afternoon are limited. Thermal baths are therefore an excellent way to spend our evenings, and a great opportunity for a pre-dinner drink in a decidedly unusual setting! Bathing in water at 40°, surrounded by snow, with the air temperature close to zero, is a blissful experience! We will do it several times. We have chosen places that charge an admission fee but provide changing rooms and showers, such as Mývatn Nature Baths, the Secret Lagoon and Vök Baths. Be aware that, for hygiene reasons, you must shower completely naked before entering the hot water. Anyone who feels shy can rest assured: the changing rooms are separated by gender, and Icelanders are used to this nudity, which bothers no one and attracts no attention. Other thermal baths are freely accessible in natural surroundings, such as Grettislaug and Jarslaug. The smell of sulphur from volcanic activity is strong, particularly in the hot water, which can come as a surprise during your first few showers. But you get used to it!
Hot spring pool © Martin devosse
Mývatn Nature Baths © Rémi Trolais
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Admiring Iceland’s volcanoes
Long black sand beaches, vast lava fields and countless craters: volcanoes and their eruptions have shaped Iceland’s landscape. We make the most of our last few days on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to explore the lava fields along the road, then visit Vatnshellir lava cave, associated with Jules Verne’s novel “Journey to the Centre of the Earth”. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air and follows us along the way.
Djúpalónssandur beach © Rémi Trolais
Lava cave and black sand beach at Vík í Mýrdal © Martin devosse
Hiking on Iceland’s glaciers
Glaciers cover around 10 % of Iceland’s land area. Equipped with ice axes, crampons and helmets, we set off with our guide and the rest of the group for a four-hour hike on a glacier tongue of Vatnajökull. We make our way across the ice, pass through a cave and skirt crevasses until we reach the highest point planned by our guide.
Hiking on Vatnajökull glacier © Rémi Trolais
Among the crevasses of Vatnajökull glacier and walking through an ice cave © Remi Trolais
The glaciers here give rise to glacial lakes such as Jökulsárlón, a magical place used as a filming location for films such as “Die Another Day”, as well as beaches such as Diamond Beach, where blocks of ice wash ashore like crystal diamonds against a black backdrop.
Go diving in Iceland
As someone who really feels the cold, I’ll be sitting this activity out! But my two intrepid companions head off for a snorkelling session in the crystal-clear waters of the Silfra fissure, in Thingvellir National Park. This fissure marks the boundary between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. The suits they wear (supplied completely dry: brave, but not reckless!) allow them to enjoy this magical experience in water that stays between 2 and 4° without feeling the cold.
Watch a geyser erupt in Iceland
The Golden Circle links, among other sights, Gullfoss waterfall, Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Geysir geothermal area. Geysir, which gave us the word “geyser”, rarely erupts these days. Nearby, Strokkur is much more active: we saw it erupt several times during our visit.
Discover Iceland’s wildlife
It’s hard to talk about Iceland’s wildlife without mentioning the Atlantic puffin, the country’s iconic bird, whose likeness appears in every imaginable form in souvenir shops. Unfortunately for us, that’s the only place we’ll get a glimpse of this endearing bird, as it is only found on the island from April to August, during its breeding season. Good to know!
With no puffins in sight, we come across another iconic animal along a little snow-covered gravel road: the Icelandic horse. The country’s laws prohibit importing horses and bringing exported horses back to the island. In addition to walking, trotting and galloping, this breed is known for two additional gaits: the tölt and the flying pace.
Icelandic horses © Pixabay
We make the most of our stop in Húsavík to go whale watching. The wind is icy, and the animals make few appearances that day: that’s part of watching wildlife. Despite the suits provided and a hot chocolate, we return to the harbour chilled to the bone after a two-and-a-half-hour trip.
Húsavík harbour © Rémi Trolais
Boats in Húsavík harbour © Rémi Trolais
We also come across sheep, which are everywhere on the island (outnumbering the Icelanders!), as well as reindeer.
See the Northern Lights in Iceland
The only disappointment of our trip was not seeing the northern lights. Yet we had only two days of intermittent rain, and the time of year was right for seeing them (from late September to March/April); however, the sky was never clear enough to spot the northern lights. That’s life! And it certainly wasn’t for lack of trying: one night, our go-to website https://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/ shows a rating of 3/9 for the first time during our stay, along with relatively clear skies in our area. That settles it: after a short nap, we get up at midnight (not easy!), wrap up warm, get in the car and head off in search of the northern lights. But after two hours, we have to face the facts: nothing! In fact, several conditions need to come together to see this phenomenon: no light pollution, a completely clear sky and… a good dose of luck! Never mind: my quest for the northern lights gives me one more reason to keep exploring the Nordic countries in winter.
We reluctantly return to France at the end of this journey. With this somewhat ambitious itinerary, these eleven days of travel have left us tired, but we return feeling transported to another world and full of wonder.
To finish, a quick look at some common clichés about Iceland:
- Yes, Iceland is cold in winter, but not necessarily colder than the mountains in France.
- Yes, the weather is unpredictable, but an Icelandic saying goes: “if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes”. It’s true.
- Yes, the sun sets early, but this is also the best season to see the northern lights (with all the caveats I mentioned earlier)
- Yes, it is quite an expensive country, especially when it comes to restaurants and alcohol, but these are costs you can easily cut by planning your meals. What’s more, most activities and tourist attractions are out in nature and therefore… free.
This winter trip made us want to return in another season. The long distances and the weather call for flexibility, but the waterfalls, hot baths and volcanic landscapes give the itinerary a clear focus.
Village of Seyðisfjörður © Rémi Trolais
To continue the story, discover our grand circuit of Iceland, designed for exploring the island on foot and by road without rushing from one stop to the next.
Article written by
Cassandre Dufour
Travel expert in France, Switzerland and Italy.
After leaving her native Nord, Cassandre lived in Spain, Italy and Scotland, before finally settling in the Vercors, where cross-country skiing has become her new favorite winter activity. A lover of adventure, she… Read more
