As Greece is in the spotlight at Grand Angle at the start of this year, here are a few memories from our trip to the Cyclades.
After a busy season and a very pleasant summer in the Vercors, it was finally time for a holiday in late September, the ideal time to discover the Cyclades.
Had the gods of Olympus decided to punish me for sending you the invoices for your trips (as that is my role at the agency)? We step out of Athens airport and are greeted by torrential rain! These are the last signs of a Mediterranean cyclone named Zorbas, which battered southern Greece for several days.
As a result, our ferry is delayed by a day and we spend Sunday in Athens. We soon forget this setback as we make the most of the last weekend in September, which coincides with European Heritage Days in Greece: all museums and sites are free to visit. The archaeological museum keeps us occupied for much of the day, and visiting the Acropolis brings our schoolday memories and lessons on Ancient Greece to life.
The 360º view over Athens is impressive, and our return through the Plaka district immerses us in the lively student atmosphere of Sunday evenings.
The next day, our journey to the Cyclades begins!
Of the islands offered by our agency, we had chosen Serifos, Sifnos and Folegandros.
Serifos
We board at Piraeus, bustling with the activity typical of any port. After a 2-hour 30-minute crossing, arriving on the island of Serifos and stepping off the ferry is a magical moment.
Chora on Serifos seen from the port of Livadi, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
The little port of Livadi, the village of Chora perched on its rocky outcrop, and the bare hills in the background.
A walk through Chora on Serifos, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
In the afternoon, a very pleasant walk up to Chora, through its narrow lanes and white houses, with views over the bay. At last, this is what you hope to find when you come to the Cyclades: little villages, churches with blue roofs, and cats basking in the sun! Then a swim right next to the hotel, as the sunshine and warmth have returned.
The next day, we set off for Sifnos.
Sifnos
Arriving on Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
Saint Catherine’s Church in the bay of Kamares, Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
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After less than an hour on the ferry, new landscapes unfold before us. We dock at the little port of Kamares, which comes alive whenever a ferry arrives or departs. Its main street is lined with little shops and waterfront restaurants.
We stay at the Afroditi hotel beside the beach, all white and blue, overlooking the bay. We hire a car and set off to explore the island.
A walk along a flower-filled lane in Apollonia, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
First, its “capital”, Apollonia, which spreads across 3 hills, with its narrow lanes and countless blue-domed churches filled with magnificent icons.
Then we head to the south-west of the island and the bay of Vathy. A little fishing port with a church built at the end of the pier and a lovely beach. A swim and some fish to enjoy by the water!
Eftamartyres Chapel on the island of Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
The day ends with a visit to Kastro and its maze of streets, stairways and narrow passageways, with views of the sea and its famous little church jutting out into the water.
The next day, we hike from Kamares to Apollonia, passing near the old mining sites and along Mount Profitis Elias. This hike reveals how the vegetation changes between the coast and the more agricultural inland area.
And we swim every day! The beaches are always lined with tamarisk trees, so we can make the most of them without worrying about sunburn.
The small bay of Cherronisos, Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
Sunset on the island of Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
This island is truly my favourite! And we are sorry to leave it.
Folegandros
Our third and final island in the Cyclades: Folegandros, wilder, with steep cliffs.
The village of Hora, Folegandros, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
View of the northern coast of Folegandros from Panagia Church, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
Icon in Panagia Church on Folegandros, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
We receive a very warm welcome from our hostess at Hotel Aegeo, then explore Hora. It is a pleasure to stroll through these Cycladic villages, discovering their narrow lanes, little squares, terraces and countless small churches. Hora, a fortified village that has endured many pirate attacks, is built on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea. Above it stands Panagia Kimissis Church, which offers impressive views.
The beach and village of Agkali, Folegandros, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
We hike to Angali Beach, well sheltered from the wind.
We also hire a car and explore the island along the main road, which passes through splendid scenery. We make a brief stop in the village of Pano Maria and have lunch in a small restaurant that also serves as a grocery shop, where the owner lets us taste the island’s speciality, “matsatas” (fresh pasta).
Scenery in north-western Folegandros, Cyclades, Greece © Pascale Moretti
The next day, we take the ferry back to Piraeus and spend our final evening in Athens.
A wonderful destination, with a stay combining exploration, hiking, relaxation, hotels with traditional architecture and varied cuisine: just what we wanted!
And there are new destinations to look forward to, as Grand Angle also offers Santorini, Milos, Corfu…
