At the end of August, we make the most of the last days of the school holidays to head to Île de Ré as a family. This year, we decided to bring our own bikes. As soon as we cross the bridge, we feel the holiday atmosphere taking hold. Our first impression is that there are lots of bikes, and all the drivers look out for cyclists, generally driving slowly and readily giving way. We chose somewhere fairly central to stay, by the sea in Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré.
Our bikes outside Notre-Dame-de-Ré Abbey © Quentin Vanaker
This year, we skipped the bike trailer and chose a tow bar for our eldest (4 years old) and a child seat for our youngest (1 and a half years old). Here is our equipment:
The tow bar, sold by Decathlon, has the advantage of letting us detach and reattach the child’s bike whenever we like, allowing my son to ride part of the way without being attached to my bike. When he wants to ride on his own, I release the attachment and fold the bar along the seatstay, which also leaves me free to ride unhindered.
The beach at La Flotte © Quentin Vanaker
To really take our time, we spent 10 days on the island, alternating bike rides with relaxing days on the beaches.
Saint-Martin (17/08) 10-12 km
Our first bike ride takes us towards Saint-Martin, a fortified town on the north coast. For our first outing, we chose the nearest town. 5km on the way there and 5 km on the way back, but it is worth taking the time to explore the town. We start with the bell tower observation point on the high ground in Saint-Martin…
Climbing the 117 steps is an adventure in itself with young children, but once we reach the top, we have no regrets!
A family walk around the fortifications of Saint-Martin-de-Ré © Quentin Vanaker
Then we head down into town to wander through the narrow streets, eventually reaching the harbour and walking along the fortifications.
These fortifications are part of the UNESCO-listed network of major Vauban sites. Their dimensions, with 14km of ramparts forming a semicircle with a radius of 1.5km, make this a unique site. The fortifications were designed to shelter the island’s entire population in the event of an enemy landing.
Phare des Baleines and Les Portes-en-Ré (19/08) 36 km
Beside a salt marsh on Île de Ré © Quentin Vanaker
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This is our longest day of the week, and we shortened the ride a little by taking a “Vélo-Mouettes” shuttle from Le Bois-Plage to Le Martray. Then we set off towards Phare des Baleines.
The tow bar proved very useful on this long day.
Arriving at Phare des Baleines © Quentin Vanaker
Standing 57m tall, the lighthouse is visible from far away, even very far away… It is our destination for the morning, and like sailors, we let this tower on the horizon guide us… When we reach the foot of the lighthouse, there are large bike parking areas available, and we make the final approach on foot.
Staircase in the Phare des Baleines lighthouse © Quentin Vanaker
View of the old Tour des Baleines tower © Quentin Vanaker
A few steps higher, we can admire a 360° panoramic view of the whole island.
La Conche beach © Quentin Vanaker
A picnic is just what we need to restore everyone’s energy… We will find a quiet spot at the start of La Conche beach.
After the break, we will head to Les Portes-en-Ré (at the northwestern tip of the island). The village centre is quite small, confined to a single square, with a peaceful atmosphere and a sense of being at the edge of the world… A coffee and an ice cream went down well. The return journey will take us through the marshes and the Lilleau des Niges Nature Reserve. You can stop at La Maison du Fier (we didn’t have time). This nature reserve is home to a large number of migratory birds. The LPO organises birdwatching sessions.
Loix and the Marshes (21/08) 24 km
© Quentin Vanaker
A lovely day to head to Loix, 12km on the outward journey. We chose to cross the island from south to north, then follow the coast to reach Loix along the harbour cycle path, and we will leave along the marshes cycle path.
Village of Loix © Quentin Vanaker
Loix is a lovely little village with a pretty little square that hosts a market in the morning. The church square quickly turns into a bicycle park. It was here that my son dubbed Île de Ré “the island of bicycles”, and that really is exactly what it is! We spent 10 days there without ever using the car.
Salt marsh near Loix © Quentin Vanaker
Scale model at the salt marsh ecomuseum © Quentin Vanaker
Family outing through the salt marshes © Quentin Vanaker
We will choose to return through the salt marshes (12km as well) and visit the salt marsh ecomuseum… It is quite interesting to learn how a salt marsh works, with its different ponds…
La Flotte and the Abbaye des Châteliers (23/08) 21 km
Cycling in the village of La Flotte, on Rue Gaston Lem © Quentin Vanaker
A day trip to La Flotte, a lovely village full of little lanes, known as venelles, listed among the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”.
The Abbaye des Châteliers on Île de Ré © Quentin Vanaker
The former Cistercian Abbaye des Châteliers © Quentin Vanaker
But the best part is still playing hide-and-seek in the Abbaye des Châteliers, which can make for some lovely photos.
© Quentin Vanaker
© Quentin Vanaker
The bridge isn’t far away now… © Quentin Vanaker
To conclude, life on the island revolves around cycling: the network of cycle paths is impressive, and road users are very considerate towards cyclists. The routes are well signposted, with plenty of signs showing distances and directions to the villages. In the villages, it is lovely to wander through the narrow streets wherever the mood takes you, getting a little lost as you discover new streets and alleyways. The beaches on the south coast are wilder and more numerous. You can visit all the villages in a week… but spending a few days chilling on the beach is pretty nice too.
Article written by
Quentin Vanaker
Travel experts in France and Switzerland
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