Faster than Modestine: 5 days of trail running on the Stevenson Trail

In this account, I take you along the Stevenson Trail on a 5-day trail-running adventure.

As an assistant in the France Liberté team at Grand Angle since October 2024, I used my spring holiday to explore one of the trips I help manage. Passionate about nature and outdoor activities, and always curious to discover new corners of France, I naturally chose an iconic walking route: the Stevenson Trail. This route, loved for its varied landscapes and changing atmosphere, can also be explored in autumn, when it offers brilliant colours and soft light.

This legendary route appealed to me both for its reputation among walkers and for the idea of following in the footsteps of writer Robert Louis Stevenson. The Stevenson Trail, or GR70, is more than just a walk: it is an immersion in wild, unspoilt France, following the trail of Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey Modestine.

I opted for a more athletic version of the classic Stevenson route: running the trail over 5 days without luggage.

As a reminder, our agency offers the Stevenson Trail as a walking trip (rather than a running trip), with several options: the northern section, the southern section or the full route, with luggage transfers available. You can find all the trip information sheets here: #Walking the Full Stevenson Trail.

Below is the account of my trip, which I undertook with my partner.

• The challenge: self-guided trail running on the southern GR70
• Day 1: From La Bastide-Puylaurent to Le Bleymard, finding our stride
• Day 2: Climbing Mont Lozère, a mystical marathon
• Day 3: Deep in the Cévennes valleys, a test of endurance
• Day 4: From Saint-Germain-de-Calberte to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, back in the sunshine
• Day 5: Bonus kilometres and arrival in the Cévennes foothills
• The Stevenson Trail at your own pace with Grand Angle

The challenge: self-guided trail running on the southern GR70

The initial goal was to complete the southern section of the Stevenson Trail in 4 days with just our trail-running packs. To travel light, without the weight of all the things packed “just in case” or the fear of not having enough. In short, a wonderful adventure together, a shared physical challenge, and a desire to explore a corner of France. And as a bonus, a chance to get to know some of the service providers I deal with through my work. To put faces to names.

Day 1: From La Bastide-Puylaurent to Le Bleymard, finding our stride (29,5 km)

Starting in La Bastide. A quick souvenir photo before we set off: we are still clean, fresh and excited. Off we go for 29,5 km! I have never run more than 19km, so this first day is already a challenge.

We start on a wide track lined with broom, our legs gradually settling into a rhythm. The landscape opens up as we move further away from the valley. Today’s challenge? Managing hydration properly, a weak point for me on previous trail runs. We pass a few hikers – some walking with donkeys. Much to our surprise, they are mostly young couples rather than families. We joke about whether this might be some sort of test before taking the next step in their relationship. We laugh at these sweet but stubborn donkeys, who sometimes refuse to budge.

The route is runnable, though still quite tough on the legs: nearly 1000 m of elevation gain. From Chasseradès onwards, the landscapes become wilder and the villages more charming. Just before Le Bleymard, we pass through scenery straight out of the Shire. We imagine ourselves lying in the grass, smoking pipe-weed as in The Lord of the Rings (for those who get the reference).

We arrive in Le Bleymard around 6 pm, a little exhausted but delighted. The hotel had even called us, worried that we had got lost. It reminds us of mountain huts looking out for climbers, which we really appreciate. Hôtel de la Remise has a lovely atmosphere: simple, welcoming, and with generous meals. A big bonus is the perfect breakfast the next morning, which sets us up for our big stage.

Day 2: Climbing Mont Lozère, a mystical marathon (45 km)

Today, the stage covers 45 km. Quite something! The sun has stayed tucked up in bed, but our motivation certainly hasn’t. On the agenda: climbing Mont Lozère. Rain, wind, fog… we climb through an almost mystical atmosphere, following the montjoies, the small standing stones that mark the pastoral paths. No view at the summit, but an atmosphere that feels timeless.

On the descent, the terrain remains technical but beautiful, with rocks sculpted by the elements and lovely Aubrac cows. A coffee-and-cake stop in Pont-de-Monvert is a lifesaver: we’re only halfway through…

With Tuc crackers in hand (these savoury snack biscuits are our fuel when we’ve had enough of sweet bars), we tackle the second half. The final stretch follows a track and we make good progress, though the energy gel is still very welcome. Towards the end of the stage, we meet Julien and Apache, a local trail runner and his dog, who finish the stage with us all the way to Cocurès. Hôtel la Lozerette is a very pleasant family-run hotel. Dinner is delicious! It’s a little embarrassing, though: the dining room is rather smart, and we’re in our socks because we didn’t want to put our wet trainers back on… As an added bonus, I have dinner opposite some Grand Angle clients whom I’ll see again this summer in the Vercors.

Day 3: Into the heart of the Cévennes valleys, a test of endurance (34 km)

Homemade breakfast at la Lozerette: a real gem. In the end, we reckon we made the right choice stopping in Cocures rather than Florac-Les-Trois-Rivières. Our legs, however, are really aching this morning. With our knees on fire, we feel as though we’ve aged 60 years overnight. The weather is also deteriorating fast. Hoods pulled firmly over our heads, we make slow progress along the gorges. Luckily, the trail is easy underfoot. It passes through tunnels, giving us a few blissful moments of shelter.

The stop at a café before Cassagnas is essential. We use the hand dryer in the toilets to try to regain some semblance of warmth. We wolf down a cereal bar, and it’s already time to head off again. On the verge of hypothermia, we decide to leave the GR hiking trail with 10 km to go before our destination. After 5 km along the road, soaked to the bone, a lovely driver gives us a lift to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte. It was the first car heading our way. Just goes to show, all it takes is one… We spend the night at Le Figuier des Cévennes. The atmosphere is more rustic and laid-back than at la Lozerette. What we really enjoyed was the friendly communal dinner around a large table with other travellers, both solo and in couples. We happily chatted about our hiking routes, what had brought us here and our lives. The menu is… unexpected: baked camembert and chips! This evening, we don’t get caught out: we do some stretches (we’ve still got 34 km in our legs today).

Day 4: From Saint-Germain-de-Calberte to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, the sun returns (22 km)

Breakfast is a little on the light side… and bam, a blood sugar crash at the top of the climb. This stage was supposed to take us “gently” to Col Saint-Pierre. But surprise: there’s still more climbing to do (thanks, Komoot, for underestimating it). Still, the trail is beautiful… a ridge, an open view, and the sun finally making an appearance. We reach Saint-Jean-du-Gard, just as Stevenson did back in his day with his donkey Modestine. To celebrate: a picnic in the sunshine and fresh strawberries, followed by a well-earned afternoon of rest at the Auberge des Peras. It’s a lovely setting, with a large terrace and a charming hostess. In the evening, we enjoy a delicious meal: salad with tomme cheese, Lozère sausage, and prune flan or tiramisu. We also meet a lovely couple who tell us about their youthful adventures and their getaway towards the Baronnies provençales.

Day 5: Bonus kilometres and arrival in the Cévennes foothills – Alès (18 km)

We were supposed to stop here, but the urge to continue all the way to Alès is too strong. So, after breakfast with an airline pilot who was setting off along the Stevenson Trail in the opposite direction, we get moving again. Guillaume remains sceptical about aircraft safety… but it was another lovely encounter. Typical southern scenery, pine trees, playful trails along the ridge, and panoramic views over Alès. This stage is shorter (18 km), leaving time for a few breaks to chat with familiar faces from the day before. What strikes us is that we stay surrounded by nature right up to Alès town centre. We pass a former mine (now a mining museum), a bridge, a few streets… and there we are at the station. A sparkling water on a café terrace, and then a speedy return by train: 1 hour 30 minutes to retrace our 5 days of trail running.

With our heads full of memories (and a few aching muscles), we return to the car in La Bastide. We head towards Nîmes for a short city break among Roman remains, good wines and local specialities: petits pâtés nîmois, croquants du Villaret and more. In the end, we managed to rise to the challenge. Beautiful landscapes, tired legs, meaningful encounters, and above all… a wonderful adventure together.

The Stevenson Trail at your own pace with Grand Angle

This trail-running experience was intense and taught us a great deal. It shows that the Stevenson Trail is a fantastic playground for active travellers. But its greatest strength lies in its ability to suit everyone. Whether you want to take your time and admire the scenery, enjoy a family adventure or set yourself a challenge, this iconic trail has something to offer you. At Grand Angle, we invite you to discover it your way.

Explore #the complete route on a self-guided walking holiday for a fully immersive experience, or choose the section that inspires you most: the #northern section, from the volcanic plateaux of the Velay to the lands of Gévaudan, or the #southern section to take on Mont Lozère and the Cévennes. For those who prefer to share the experience and benefit from a guide’s expertise, our group trips on the southern or northern section are an excellent option. Feel free to contact our experts to help shape an adventure that suits you.