Estelle, a product manager at Grand Angle since 2008, travelled with her husband and children to explore the Cinque Terre on foot and enjoy the Indian summer. Here is her story:
Autumn is coming! The season is drawing to a close: my turn to enjoy a holiday! This year, we’ve decided to settle into the 3*-rated Hôtel Palace in Levanto for a week exploring the Cinque Terre as a family. Who’s coming? Cyril and me (the parents!), Rémi (aged 6) and Louise (aged 3, travelling in the child carrier).
Please note that some of the trails mentioned in this article may be open or closed depending on the year and weather conditions. You can check their current status on the official Cinque Terre website
Let’s settle in!
As soon as we arrive, Anna and her team make us feel right at home. I’ve had the pleasure of working with Anna for years, organising Grand Angle’s self-guided walking holidays in the Cinque Terre. Hôtel Palace is a century old, with so much charm… and the warmth of a family home, centred around Anna, her daughters Eva and Cecilia, and her brother. They look after us all week, spoil us and share their local tips: it’s a real joy!
Our family room for four is spacious, with plenty of room to make ourselves comfortable. At the dinner table, the meals are just like the welcome: generous! Three homemade courses are served each evening. The service from a small, attentive and caring team is impeccable.
The hotel is peaceful despite being right in the centre of Levanto: a 5-minute walk from the beach and 10 from the station! It’s worth pausing here, because the hotel’s proximity to the station is important. Trains connect the Cinque Terre: 5 centuries-old villages clinging to the cliffs of the Ligurian Riviera, south of Genoa. A footpath links them, crossing extraordinary terraces where vines and olive trees grow. The railway, built in 1870, remains the best way to get around. The Cinque Terre are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a “cultural, evolving and natural landscape”, and the five villages are part of the Cinque Terre National Park. The pretty village of Levanto sits just outside the Cinque Terre. From here, the train provides quick and easy access to all the villages in the national park. In Levanto, it’s also easy to park your car for the week and enjoy the beach in the evening.
Hôtel Palace in Levanto
As usual, we’ve barely put down our suitcases before the children are bursting with excitement to go swimming… so off to the beach we go!
Levanto beach © Estelle Torterotot
The beach is large and lovely, and even at this time of year, the water is pleasant… There are no crowds, making it perfect for enjoying the end of the day and its beautiful autumn light.
The village of Corniglia
This morning, we head to Corniglia, in the heart of the Cinque Terre. The children are bursting with excitement at the thought of taking the train, especially Louise: it will be her 1st time! What a thrill, and what a sense of setting off on a grand adventure! Mixing sightseeing, hiking, train rides and beach time is ideal for keeping our little ones motivated without making their days too long.
The steps leading up to the village of Corniglia © Estelle Torterotot
As soon as we leave the station, a climb of 380 steps gets us straight into the swing of things! Corniglia is the only village in the Cinque Terre with no access to the sea. Its traditional houses are very narrow and cling to the cliff. It is quite a sight. The terraced gardens bear witness to the hard work and determination of the people who shaped the landscape of the Cinque Terre.
Colourful houses in the village of Corniglia © Estelle Torterotot
The village of Corniglia from the Sentiero Azzurro © Estelle Torterotot
The village of Vernazza
From Corniglia, we continue along the trail to Vernazza. With Rémi, aged 6, and Louise on my back, the hike takes us around 2 hours 30 minutes. It is a beautiful hillside trail that zigzags above the sea, with wonderful views. Along the way, we pass through olive groves and vineyards before making a spectacular approach to the village of Vernazza.
Hiking between Corniglia and Vernazza © Estelle Torterotot
The village of Vernazza © Estelle Torterotot
Vernazza is my favourite: it has retained all the character of a fishing village, with its little harbour and colourful houses, its Belforte tower perched on a rocky outcrop and its 14th-century church. The façades have undergone less restoration than those in the other villages, adding to the authenticity of this extraordinary place surrounded by terraced vineyards.
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The villages of Bonassola and Framura
Today, we head west of the Cinque Terre! Following our host’s helpful advice, we set off to explore a lovely cycle path starting in Levanto, which links the villages of Bonassola and Framura in 7 km along the old railway route.
Cycle path between Levanto and Bonassola - Framura © Estelle Torterotot
The hotel has a few bikes, some fitted with child seats, which it is happy to lend out. They are not racing bikes, but good, well-made bicycles.
Off we go! The path is completely safe and passes through several lit tunnels that open out onto spectacular sea views. Some also provide access to little coves that are worth a detour for a swim, a picnic break or a pebble-throwing session for the youngest children. Between sightseeing and relaxing, this return trip will take us almost the whole day: a brilliant day out! Even better, the tunnels will provide welcome shelter from today’s showers.
Bikes in Framura © Estelle Torterotot
When we reach Framura’s harbour, we leave the bikes secured to the railing. The way down to the water is by lift! A little restaurant above the harbour awaits us for a meal or a drink.
The village of Manarola
The village of Manarola © Estelle Torterotot
The destination for our next day of exploring: the village of Manarola. It is one of the most famous villages in the Cinque Terre (my favourite after Vernazza), and perhaps the busiest too. As soon as we arrive, we quickly understand why: it is stunning! The village clings to the slopes between two cliffs, surrounded by vineyards. To explore it, we take a path with magnificent viewpoints looking across at the village. We make a wonderful discovery: a playground with slides and roundabouts! The children happily burn off some energy while Mum and Dad admire the view! The lanes are colourful and lively, bustling with little restaurants. We opt for a picnic. At a focacceria, we buy some focaccia: a delicious traditional bread that resembles pizza. We settle down for lunch in a lovely, quiet little lane.
The village of Manarola is linked to Riomaggiore by the “Sentier dell Amore”, a path that hugs the cliffs and is justly renowned for its beauty. Unfortunately, it has been closed for several years because of a rockfall. It will reopen, but when? In the meantime, we will take the train to Riomaggiore tomorrow.
The village of Riomaggiore
The village of Riomaggiore © Estelle Torterotot
Riomaggiore is different again from the other villages. It is built around a narrow main street that slopes down to the sea and the little harbour. The cheerful reds and yellows of some of the façades brighten the approach to the harbour. We walk back up the main street and through the little lanes to reach the top of the village and the lovely square by the Gothic church. The climb is quite steep, but the children walk well; every now and then, they take little breaks on the steps, which are plentiful and very high for little legs!
A stroll through the lanes of Riomaggiore © Estelle Torterotot
Our reward awaits as we reach the square by the church of San Giovanni Battista: an exceptional view of the sea…
The church of San Giovanni Battista in Riomaggiore © Estelle Torterotot
Sea view from Riomaggiore Castle © Estelle Torterotot
We had promised the children a boat trip back from Riomaggiore to Levanto. How exciting! Full of enthusiasm, we all begin the descent to the harbour through tiny, very steep lanes. When we reach the bottom, we are told that the swell is too strong today: all the boats have been cancelled! Never mind, a delicious ice cream will reward our efforts!
The village of Portovenere
It would be a shame to leave the Cinque Terre without admiring the villages from the sea… After yesterday’s disappointment, we make a big decision: on this final day, we will take a boat to Portovenere and return by boat too! With a crossing of 1 hour and 50 minutes from Levanto each way, the children are in heaven!
Portovenere from the sea
Portovenere is not part of the Cinque Terre or its National Park, yet the village has just as much to offer as the others. It is also UNESCO-listed. The first thing you see when arriving by boat is the church of San Pietro overlooking the sea, with Doria Castle right beside it. The houses are all colourful too, and there are restaurants, little shops… The village is lively, but still quieter than its neighbours. We have a wonderful final day!
Church of San Pietro in Portovenere
Back in Levanto, we spend our last few hours wandering around this lovely town, a little removed from the tourist bustle of the villages in the National Park. One last stroll and a swim at the beach as the sun sets. Cyril and I have found a great little bar, “da Brigida” (drop in if you get the chance…), where we can enjoy a leisurely aperitif while the children play in the adjoining park.
And just like that, it’s (already) over! I already know Italy and its many treasures well, and without hesitation, the Cinque Terre is one of the places I think you should discover! This approach is undoubtedly ideal for exploring the area: staying at a hotel in Levanto and heading out each day for walks to the villages, which are easy to reach by train or boat. Suitable for everyone, whether travelling as a couple, with family or with friends, this is a trip that leaves a lasting impression, and I am delighted to have shared it with my young children… who still talk to me about the steps and the boat!
The Cinque Terre reward a slower family visit on foot.
For more ideas for trips to Italy, read our account of bellissima Italia: nature, culture and the art of living.
Article written by
Estelle Torterotot
Travel Advisor
An enthusiast of family cycling, paragliding, hiking and Nordic ski touring! She specializes in self-guided tours (hiking, biking, snow) in France, Switzerland and Italy. Read more
