3-day hut-to-hut hike in the Dolomites

Looking for some inspiration for a few days of hiking in the Dolomites? Giovanna, who took some of her inspiration from our trip from Lake Braies to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo , takes you along in this blog post for 3 days of hut-to-hut hiking in the Dolomites, discovering some of the most iconic places in this mountain range. You will find the map of this 3-day hiking route in the Dolomites at the bottom of the article.

The Dolomites from Lake Braies to the Tre Cime

Day 1: From Auronzo Hut to Prato Piazza – 26 km/1330 m ascent

On this first day, the alarm goes off very early, as we know that the first stage of our hiking journey will be very long. This morning, we get everything done efficiently: yoga at dawn, breakfast, a quick brush of our teeth, backpacks on, and off we go to discover the “authentic and wild” Dolomites, marking the start of these 3 days of hiking in the Dolomites.

Leaving Auronzo Hut, where we spent the night, we immediately take the Tre Cime motorway (otherwise known as trail 101), before soon turning off at exit 104, by Lavaredo Hut (2344 m).

Lavaredo Hut - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

This change of direction takes us away from the crowds of tourists who have come to admire the Tre Cime… and nothing else. Trail 104 skirts Monte Paterno, crossing vast green pastures where herds of bold cows block our way.

Around Monte Paterno - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

Once past the realm of the grazing cattle, we enter “Marmot Valley”, a true paradise in Giovanna’s eyes. Here, plump marmots, well fed and ready to face a harsh winter, doze peacefully on the rocks before fleeing at full speed towards the grassy slopes when the occasional hiker approaches, displaying unexpected agility.

Marmot Valley - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

The trail then climbs gently to the dried-up Lake Cengia (2324m), where it becomes a series of much steeper hairpin bends leading to Pian di Cengia, at an altitude of 2602 m.

From there, we turn right onto trail 101 to reach Locatelli Hut (2405 m), known for its magnificent viewpoint overlooking the north face of the Tre Cime. On its terrace, we find ourselves back among the bustling crowds of tourists armed with selfie sticks and cameras, and we are happy to escape by taking the less frequented trail 102.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

A very long descent (2 hours, 10, 1000 descent!) plunges into Val Rinbon with its conifer forest, then follows the Fiume Rienza, FINALLY bringing us to Landro (1406 m).

Here, we have two options: follow the road south to Carbonin, then take a forest track leading to Prato Piazza Hut (our destination for today), or reach it via the Dolomites Alta Via 34.

Alta Via 34 - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

Brave (or masochistic), we choose the second option: despite the 800 metres of elevation gain, most of it on a steep climb, we do not regret our decision, as the route has several surprises in store for us: VERY steep switchbacks dotted with treacherous roots and solitary mushrooms, a walk through a cave that ends with an exposed section equipped with a handrail, and a First World War fort beside “Monte Strudel” (Strudelkopf). All this with the Tre Cime in the background, watching over us from afar and constantly encouraging us onwards.

At Strudel Sattel (2200 m), we begin descending towards the Prato Piazza plateau, passing through an alpine pasture dotted with cows of every colour.

Prato Piazza - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

At 17:30 – after seven and a half hours of actual walking and more than 1300 metres of elevation gain, we finally arrive at the flower-adorned lodge in Prato Piazza (1981 m), or – as the South Tyroleans call it – Berggasthof Plätzwiese.

Here, Gerlinde and Philip, the young hosts of this family-run mountain hut, give us a very warm welcome. It is just the comfort our weary bodies need.

Dinner at Prato Piazza - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

Along with a generous and delicious dinner (a special mention goes to the “torta alla ricotta della nonna”), they give us insightful advice for the next day’s hike. With aching legs but warm hearts, we finally crawl into bed and fall into a childlike sleep!

Day 2: From Prato Piazza to Fodara Mountain Hut - 17 km/780 m elevation gain

However thoroughly you plan a hike, today’s stage reminded us that being adaptable is essential in the mountains.

Our original plan was to reach Fodara Mountain Hut via Lake Braies (in German, Pragser Wildsee), an iconic, unmissable spot in the Dolomites.

Lago Braies - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

Luckily, our hosts, who really know the area, helped us fine-tune our route by explaining that this detour would have added 900 metres of elevation gain to an already demanding day’s walk.

Following their recommendations, after a hearty breakfast every bit as good as the previous evening’s dinner, we take Alta Via 3 to Biella Mountain Hut (400 m elevation gain, 4 hours of walking).

Croda Rossa - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

The route is indeed magnificent. As the only hikers on the trail, we once again discover a wild and colourful natural landscape: a succession of pastures with cows capable of climbing to an altitude of 2000 metres, plump, lazy marmots, and a profusion of bellflowers, alpine snowbells and early purple orchids.

A short, slightly exposed section takes us to the foot of Croda Rossa (literally “Red Needle”), where rockfalls are a constant occurrence. Indeed, a few minutes after passing it, we hear the “gurgling” of falling stones. A reminder of how unpredictable the mountains can be!

Alta Via 3 - towards the Biella refuge - Dolomites © Marc Margalef Rovira

A little later, as we cross the Forcella Cocodain ridge (2330 m), the wind picks up, and gusts of 60 km/h make us quicken our pace. By the time we arrive at the Biella refuge (2327 m), the sky is completely overcast, and thick rain clouds hide the summit of Croda del Becco, which we had originally planned to climb for panoramic views of Lake Braies. The changeable weather and our tiredness convince us to abandon the idea.

Croda del Becco from the Biella refuge, Dolomites © Marc Margalef Rovira

We take a short break for a delicious strudel (a cake typical of South Tyrol), then make our way downhill on aching legs to Fodara Vedla Hütte (1966 m). Here, techno versions of Tyrolean songs tell us that it is a day of celebration for the local young people who, as tradition dictates, gather every year on the last Sunday in August at the refuges in Fanes-Sennes Nature Park to celebrate the end of summer with dancing, singing and plenty of drinks.

After this taste of local folklore, we continue exploring South Tyrolean customs through its food.

Canederli - Dolomites © Marc Margalef Rovira

The dinner menu offers “canederli” — large gnocchi made with spinach, bread, speck and cheese — and venison stew. A real treat for our food-loving hikers' palates (and hearty appetites!).

Day 3: From Fodara Vedla to Rifugio Val Parola – 21 km / 970 m ascent

At 6 o’clock, claps of thunder wake us for the final stage of our 3 days of hiking in the Dolomites. The storms that the weather forecasts had been predicting for days have finally caught up with us. Over breakfast, our thoughts turn to planning the day. Luckily, we had prepared for this possibility! Wrapped in our rain ponchos and waterproof trousers, we get ready to face the downpours.

Reluctantly, we leave the warm, elegant Fodara Hütte and head towards Ücia — the Ladin word for refuge — Pederü (1548 m).

Pederu refuge, Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

Once here, we face another dilemma: choose comfort and take the bus to Valparola Pass, or brave the elements and finish our adventure on foot? Stubborn and proud, we naturally choose the second option.

Needless to say, we will not dwell on the beauty of the scenery on this stage: five hours of almost continuous walking in pouring rain, during which we cross Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park at a brisk pace, passing its lush alpine pastures, streams and small lakes.

Lago Verde - Parco Naturale di Fanes Senes Braies - Flickr

Towards the end of the morning, Capanna Alpina appears like a mirage, followed by the village of Sciaré, where we make our way to the bus stop, soaked and unsteady on our feet.

We do not have to wait long and, a few minutes later, we can finally collapse in the welcoming room shown to us by Raffaella, the youngest member of the family that has run the Val Parola mountain hut (2178 m) for many decades. To replenish our depleted energy reserves, the nonna offers us some homemade grappa, which, however, has the effect of a lullaby on us. We will only discover the charm of the surrounding landscape the following morning, when the fog gives way to a small lake and a beautiful view of Monte Lagazuoi

Rifugio Val Parola, Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

Our trek through the Dolomites ends here. From the bus taking us to Cortina, we catch sight of the five fingers of the rocky hand of the Cinque Torri, bidding us arrivederci.

Would you like to go hiking in the Dolomites for 3 days too?

If this story has inspired you, you can find the map and route for this 3-day hiking circuit in the Dolomites here:

Would you like to explore further? Grand Angle offers many options for hut-to-hut treks in the Dolomites lasting from 6 to 14 days, from comfortable centre-based self-guided walking around Cortina to the guided 10-day Grand Traverse from Bolzano to Cortina, or even a trek along the legendary Alta Via 1.

All our treks in the Dolomites

Bonus - climbing Cima Grande

As keen climbers, we could not visit the Dolomites without enjoying a great day of rock climbing. So, before starting our 3 days of hiking in the Dolomites, we could not resist setting out to conquer Cima Grande from the Auronzo mountain hut.

That morning, the day before our 3-day hike in the Dolomites, the alarm goes off at 5:30, and breakfast is already waiting on the table in our dormitory. Coffee, a croissant and orange juice, then we quickly set off towards Cima Grande di Lavaredo, our goal for today. This early start is prompted by an unpromising weather forecast: thunderstorms are expected from 15:00. By setting off at dawn, we also hope to avoid the procession of rope teams who have come from all over the world to climb this internationally renowned peak.

Approach walk to Cima Grande © Giovanna Crippa

Despite our efforts, after an approach walk of around forty minutes (200m elevation gain), we arrive at the foot of the normal route to find, unfortunately, that we are already third in the queue.

Equipped with ropes, helmets and various pieces of climbing hardware, we tackle the first pitch, which takes us into a gully separating the rock formation known as the “Pyramid” from the main body of Cima Grande. We move quickly up this chimney, trying to avoid being caught by the other climbers, whose voices echo a few metres behind us. At the end of the gap, Marc, convinced that the route turns left, ventures into unexplored territory and ends up on the summit of the Pyramid.

Cima Grande - Dolomites © Giovanna Crippa

A brief moment of uncertainty gives the guides behind us the chance to overtake us with their clients. We decide to follow in their footsteps and benefit from their expertise ourselves, helping us find our way across this expanse of rock which, despite being very popular, lacks clear landmarks. We continue one pitch after another until we find ourselves queuing at the foot of a chimney where a bottleneck of climbers has formed.

Climbing Cima Grande © Marc Margalef

Once past this bottleneck, everyone is moving normally again, and by 11:00 we have already taken the obligatory photo of ourselves at the summit (2999 m), with a few other hikers in the background. Although we would have liked more time to enjoy this 360-degree view of the Dolomites, our moment of rest is far too short.

Summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo

By 11:20, we are already on our way back. The descent follows the same route planned for the ascent and is mostly done moving together on a taut rope, apart from two 60 m-metre abseils. In the early afternoon, a shower of hail and rain falls on us, making us fear that we will never reach the end of the route without getting completely soaked. It is only at 17:00 that we finally make it through the door of Rifugio Auronzo — “dry and safe” — where a lovely hot shower and a well-earned dinner allow us to recharge our batteries before setting off on our 3-day hike in the Dolomites.

© Text and photo credits: Giovanna & Marc