In early spring, we returned to the Tarn and Jonte Gorges for a weekend of walking around Le Rozier. A few years earlier, I had written the Grand Angle walking guide for our self-guided walking holiday in the gorges. This time, I was returning with loved ones, keen to share the trails, the views from the limestone plateaus and the experience of watching vultures. This travel diary recounts our 2 days out on the trails and offers practical pointers to help you decide what to do in the Tarn and Jonte Gorges.
Le Rozier as a starting point
Our base is in the village of Le Rozier, where the Tarn and Jonte rivers meet, on the Causse Méjean side. Opposite us is the beautiful medieval village of Peyreleau, with its tower and the Château de Triadou. On the Causse Noir side, the village is separated from Le Rozier by just a small bridge over the Jonte… I can imagine the village rivalries of the time…
The village of Peyreleau, seen from Le Rozier in the Tarn Gorges © Claire Durot
A first day on the Causse Méjean
For our first walk from Le Rozier, a wonderful route awaits, with many viewpoints over the gorges and remarkable sights throughout the day. Vultures will also accompany us for much of the walk. We follow the GR de Pays du Tour du Causse Méjean trail between the village of Le Rozier and the hamlet of La Viale, on the Causse Méjean.
In lovely morning sunshine, we climb towards the ruins of the hamlet of Capluc: a charming hamlet, bathed in morning sunlight and sheltered by the imposing Rocher de Capluc. As an extra, we climb the Rocher de Capluc, 655 m, using a few ladders (anyone with a fear of heights should skip this climb). The view from the summit is worth the detour; the 360° panorama takes in the Tarn and Jonte Gorges.
Panoramic view over the Tarn Gorges © Claire Durot
Peyreleau seen from the Rocher de Capluc in the Tarn Gorges © Claire Durot
We continue our walk among the Jonte cliffs. A good trail along the hillside takes us to the Vase de Sèvres, then the Vase de Chine. We are right beside the Jonte cliffs.
The Vase de Sèvres and the Jonte cliffs on the walk © Claire Durot
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Stop to enjoy the many viewpoints along the way, whether simply to admire the beautiful scenery or to take a picnic break.
Walking with views over the Jonte Gorges © Claire Durot
We are now walking through magnificent scenery, between colourful limestone cliffs and Scots pine forest. The Jonte Gorges provide an excellent habitat for vultures, and many soar above our heads. From time to time, we are lucky enough to admire one close by.
The Jonte Gorges, Vase de Sèvres and Vase de Chine © Claire Durot
Spring is arriving and the plants are coming back to life, especially the pasqueflowers, which display beautiful, vivid colours.
A pasqueflower on the Tarn and Jonte Gorges walk © Claire Durot
The trail winds between the cliffs to the Balcon du Vertige, where we enjoy one last panoramic view of the gorges before heading back into the forest on the Causse Méjean. We first reach the hamlet of Cassagnes (refreshment stand, with food available), then come to the highlight: the Arcs de Saint-Pierre and the ancient Gallo-Roman village of Résiniers.
The refreshment stand in Cassagnes © Claire Durot
The Arcs de Saint-Pierre
Erosion has sculpted these limestone arches in the forest. Their shapes fascinate me so much that I feel as though I am entering another world. Nearby, the Grotte de l’Homme-Mort is an important archaeological site: in 1867, Dr Barthélémy Prunières and Professor Paul Broca discovered the remains of around fifty people dating from the Copper Age, between 2 200 and 1 800 BCE.
The Arcs de Saint-Pierre on the hike through the Tarn and Jonte gorges © Claire Durot
Passing beneath the Arcs de Saint-Pierre on the hike through the Tarn and Jonte gorges © Claire Durot
The cave also yielded France’s first recorded discovery of skulls with healing lesions consistent with trepanation. These traces indicate that some people survived the procedure, but do not establish the existence of a “medical centre”. The purpose of these trepanations remains debated.
If you visit this area, there are other sites to explore: the Place Centrale, a beautiful natural amphitheatre with a column around ten metres tall at its centre and, of course, a few arches dotted around its edges. The Grotte des Baumelles, with its imposing entrance, could shelter an entire flock of sheep. There are also the remains of the Gallo-Roman village of Résiniers, with their dry-stone walls.
It is time for us to leave this timeless world. We walk for a few more minutes through the forest and reach the hamlet of La Viale and our vehicle, bringing today’s hike to an end. We could sum it up in just a few words: a magnificent spectacle.
Day two on the Causse Noir
Today our hike starts in the village of Peyrelau, from where we set off to explore the Corniches du Causse Noir trail.
A long climb takes us to the top of the plateau and our first curious sight, the Champignon Préhistorique.
Encountering the Champignon Préhistorique on the hike through the Tarn and Jonte gorges © Claire Durot
We are in the heart of a Réserve Biologique Intégrale (RBI), a strict biological reserve with one of France’s highest levels of protection. Here, protecting natural habitats and allowing nature to take its course take priority over human activities, which are prohibited. Only hiking is tolerated, provided you stay on the trails.
Once again, we find ourselves close to the cliffs of the Jonte gorges, enjoying new panoramic views of the gorges and the cliffs we walked along the day before.
Panoramic view of the Jonte gorges © Claire Durot
We stop for a picnic on an open, level stretch of ground facing the ruins of the Ermitage Saint-Michel.
The merry crew hiking in the Jonte gorges © Claire Durot
We visit the Hermitage with the help of a few ladders. What a sight! The views are magnificent in every direction. Surely the hermit who lived here must have spent happy days, nourished by the magnificent spectacle of nature (… if such a sight can provide nourishment?).
View from the Saint-Michel Hermitage and the Vases de Sèvres and de Chine rock formations on the hike through the Tarn and Jonte gorges © Claire Durot
After visiting the Hermitage, we descend quickly to the River Jonte, which we follow to Peyreleau and Le Rozier.
Our hiking weekend draws to a close, leaving us eager to return and explore other trails.
To plan your own walking trip, take a look at our self-guided hike through the Tarn and Jonte gorges.
The Cévennes offer many more walking routes to explore.
Discover more breathtaking views by browsing our selection of France’s most beautiful landscapes.
Article written by
Thomas Praire
Technical Travel Manager
With a background in agroecology, Thomas is also a mountain guide and Nordic ski instructor. As Technical Director of Travel at GrandAngle.Travel, he sets the overall direction for trip development and creates new… Read more
