Cycling along the Danube: From the Black Forest to Budapest

I joined Grand Angle in early 2025 as an assistant working on self-guided holidays in Europe. I now specialise in German-speaking regions. In 2024, I had the chance to cycle a large stretch of the Danube. I had long wanted to cycle all the way to the Black Sea. So this year, I set off. The first part of my journey took me along the Danube. Here, I share some memories and impressions from the many countries the river led me through.

The source of the Danube, in the heart of the Black Forest

I left Grenoble on a bus equipped with a bike rack and travelled to Freiburg in Germany. Rather than starting directly in Donaueschingen, where one of the Danube’s two headwaters emerges, I chose to go as far as the official source of the Breg. It was a detour I did not regret, through a forest with an almost mystical atmosphere. Heading back down to Donaueschingen, I then discovered the second source, the Brigach. This is where the two rivers meet and the Danube begins.

Alongside the river while it is still wild

The first few kilometres are peaceful: the Danube meanders gently, still unspoilt, far from the infrastructure that disrupts its flow. Along the cycle path, small places of prayer nestled among the trees punctuate the route and add to the tranquillity of the surroundings.

Ulm: a first reunion and unexpected encounters

My first major goal was Ulm, where I met up with a longstanding German friend. The route had plenty of surprises in store: English walkers heading to Vienna, a Bavarian village festival where I exchanged a few words with local people, endless storks, and landscapes so peaceful that you find yourself daydreaming as you ride. Between nights camping in the wild and stays at simple but welcoming campsites, every day had a sense of adventure.

The stretch as far as Sigmaringen is particularly wild, then the river widens and begins to look more navigable. Ulm, with its Fishermen’s Quarter, was a cheerful and well-earned stop.

Crossing Bavaria

From Ulm, I covered a series of long daily stages as I crossed Bavaria. I passed through Donauwörth, then Ingolstadt and Wörth an der Donau. The terrain was fairly flat apart from around the abbey near Kelheim, so I made good progress.

The many birds and small animals in the fields kept catching my eye. I also spent a night camping in the wild with a view of a magnificent sunset over the Danube.

I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the German towns I had not visited before.

The Bavarian accent is not easy to understand, but people are very thoughtful. One woman even took a 30-minute detour to cycle with me towards the campsite I had picked out. Understanding only one word in 10, it took me a while to realise that she was simply escorting me there!

Crossing into Austria

Crossing the Austrian border after 9 days of cycling. It lies just beyond the town of Passau, where the Inn, the Ilz and, of course, the Danube meet. The river grows wider, and I settle more and more into the journey, establishing little routines as I set up and pack away my camp.

Austrian style

Third night in Austria. The first was just after crossing the border, overlooking the Danube. I then passed through Schlögen, a place with beautiful river bends surrounded by cliffs. The next day, I finally met someone riding a “biobike”, which is what some Austrians told me they call non-electric bikes. This former police officer kindly let me ride in his slipstream. It was motivating, until my chain broke and my cassette started coming loose in Mauthausen. The day ended among the animals in Grein. I pitched my tent at a farm campsite, a little way above the river. In the morning, I stopped at a bakery in town famous for its cakes.

The Wachau Valley and arrival in Vienna

I’ve arrived in Vienna! And just like that, I’m already at my last stop in Austria. The ride through the Wachau Valley, with its vineyards, was particularly beautiful. The headwind I’ve had for 3 days makes each day physically demanding. Whitecaps form on the river, and waves ripple through the wheat fields. I feel as though I’m climbing mountain passes, but without the reward of reaching the top. It’s a real mental challenge. Luckily, the prospect of visiting my friend Sandra before the weekend motivates me to keep going! I already know the capital, but I’m keen to see the architect Hundertwasser’s fairytale house and St Stephen’s Cathedral again. In the evening, meeting other touring cyclists, all heading for faraway places, is inspiring.

Bratislava: a warm welcome in Slovakia

Bratislava is just a short pedal from Vienna. I arrived on Thursday evening at a friend’s home, where she gave me a warm welcome. A brief shower arrived just before me, heralding Friday’s bad weather. Crossing the border brings a real change of atmosphere. Over these three days, my friend showed me around the Slovak capital with its bumpy roads. We visited the old town, went to a bar someone had opened in their garage, and another whose decor would put flea markets to shame. On Saturday evening, we watched a World Cup match in the national sport, ice hockey. France versus Slovakia! I also got to taste some delicious local specialities, such as bryndzové halušky: little potato and sheep’s cheese dumplings mixed with a special cheese called bryndza. A wonderful time in this city on a human scale.

From capital to capital

My first days in Hungary have been full of discovery, passing through towns whose names I struggle to pronounce. On the first day, I cycled through the lovely town of Győr and enjoyed a beautiful night camping near Gönyű. On the second, I had a coffee in the surprising and colourful Europe Square in Komárno. Luckily, I pitched my tent at a campsite just before the storm hit Esztergom. The next day, after visiting the imposing basilica in the “Hungarian Rome”, I left the EV6 and headed into a peaceful forest. The path led me to charming but touristy Szentendre.

Next stop: Budapest!

After eating a lángos, a fried flatbread topped with cheese and cream, I went to the wrong address for my accommodation, probably feeling a little sleepy after the meal. That was when my phone battery called it a day. After a few twists and turns on the outskirts of Budapest, and with the help of a lovely family, I reached my destination. My host, Csaba, and I were able to raise a toast: “egészségedre”. He also introduced me to a few local specialities. I made the most of my stop in the capital to visit the thermal baths and pose for a photo in front of the Parliament building. This already marks the end of the first part of my journey to the Black Sea.

These several weeks along the Danube will remain a lasting memory. Although I set off alone, I met many people along the way and let myself be surprised by the natural and cultural treasures lining Europe’s second-longest river. My story ends here in Budapest, but I was lucky enough to continue my journey to the Black Sea and even to Turkey. Our Danube Bike and Boat Trip from Germany to Serbia lets you explore all these aspects of the Danube as far as Serbia, all in great comfort. We offer other options for families or keen cyclists, with or without a boat. I would be delighted to help you find the way to discover this route that suits you best.