Lanzarote is a fascinating island! Even before landing, you can see a lunar landscape of black, red and ochre through the aircraft window. Vegetation is sparse, and the landscape is dotted with little whitewashed houses.
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Map of Lanzarote
From your very first steps inside the airport, you cannot miss César Manrique, the island’s celebrated local artist. This tireless architect and photographer shaped the island. In particular, we have him to thank for preserving its overall architectural character, with no high-rise buildings and a fierce commitment to blending into and protecting the environment. Everywhere you visit bears a touch of “Manrique”, starting with your first hotel in Costa Teguise: Hotel Meliá Salinas. This fully renovated 1978 hotel is built around an enormous pool surrounded by greenery, which seems to sparkle amid the black lava. The rooms are truly comfortable, and our stay begins with a drink on our private balcony overlooking the sea, followed by another at the hotel’s sand bar at sunset.
Hotel Meliá Salinas © Julie Marienval
A little confession: following an operation, I did this trip in the support vehicle, meeting up with David at each place we visited. With the Grand Angle GPS app, there is no chance of getting lost or missing each other: we check the route notes in the morning and decide where to stop. David, meanwhile, rides every suggested stage, taking the longer option on a bike without electric assistance, and always with a smile:)
From Costa Teguise to Haría
On the first day, we immediately realise just how well suited Lanzarote is to cycling!! The roads are wonderfully smooth, drivers respect cyclists, the landscape is gently rolling, and the temperature is ideal! No wonder professional cycling teams train here every winter.
We immerse ourselves straight away in the world of César Manrique. Our first stop is the Jardín del Cactus, designed by the artist. Next comes a refreshing break in the shade at Los Jameos del Agua, also enhanced by César’s artistry. Nearby are the astonishing caves of the Cueva de los Verdes. Finally, for the highlight of the day, we make sure to visit the magnificent Mirador del Río, with its breathtaking view of neighbouring La Graciosa, for a romantic sunset!
Julie in the Jardín del Cactus © David Praire
David at Los Jameos del Agua © Julie Marienval
The Cueva de los Verdes © Julie Marienval
La Graciosa seen from the Mirador del Río © Julie Marienval
There are admission charges, but fortunately a “6-visit pass” is available! You can buy it at the Jardín del Cactus. It covers the island’s finest attractions, including the unmissable Timanfaya, the devastating and still-smoking volcano in the centre of the island, and its Montañas del Fuego.
From Haría to Teguise
La Casa Rural de Lola y Juan is beautifully decorated. An old house converted into guest rooms, it feels as though every room has been furnished with carefully collected finds, and its bursts of colour make it an unusual and welcoming place to stay.
Casa Rural de Lola y Juan © David Praire
Casa Rural de Lola y Juan © David Praire
After a good night’s sleep, we start by climbing to the island’s highest point at 670m, with its panoramic views. A few downhill pedal strokes take us to Villa LagOmar, a spectacular private property partly designed by Manrique. It winds through the rock like a labyrinth, following the contours of the terrain around an emerald pool that contrasts with the black rock. Actor Omar Sharif helped make this residence famous by losing it in a game of bridge just a few days after buying it!
Villa LagOmar © Julie Marienval
I meet David a few kilometres further on, outside the Fundación César Manrique, nestled in a barren black lava flow. This exhibition space is one of the artist’s former homes. He used the hollows in the basalt flows to create an unusual, very “seventies” living space.
This day’s cycling ends with a ride through the wine-growing region of La Geria. Surprising for an island where little or nothing grows, isn’t it? The locals have found a solution: vines are grown here in small craters that allow each plant to develop sheltered from the wind, while retaining water from the rare rainfall or morning dew.
La Geria wine-growing region © Julie Marienval
From Teguise to Teguise
Hotel Casa Palacio Ico in Teguise is a gem of a hacienda in the heart of the former capital. It is a peaceful hotel with incredible charm. Its homemade breakfast is a treat, and its restaurant offers a fresh take on authentic Lanzarote cuisine: a real journey of flavours!
Teguise is a haven of peace, with its pedestrian streets, church, historic buildings, aloe museum, and more…
Hotel Casa Palacio Ico and Teguise’s square © Julie Marienval
Today’s itinerary is a cycling loop to discover the wild northern coast and its beaches frequented by fishermen and surfers. For lunch, look no further: stop at Restaurant El Risco in Caleta de Famara! It’s the place to go for food lovers!
On the way back, pick up some locally crafted souvenirs at Manrique’s Campesino.
Montaña Tinache and Famara beach © Julie Marienval
From Teguise to Playa Blanca
So far, we have certainly been spoilt by the scenery and sights, but the most impressive experience is still to come: THE highlight of the island! We cross barren lava fields that seem to stretch as far as the eye can see, dotted here and there with small volcanic cones. David joins me on his bike for a visit to Timanfaya National Park. The visit takes place by bus along a 14 km route (designed, of course, by César Manrique) and lasts 40 minutes. As cyclists and hikers, we would naturally have preferred to follow the route on foot or by bike, but the visit is well worth it!
Timanfaya National Park © Julie Marienval
It is absolutely magnificent, otherworldly, dizzying, spectacular, unique!! I cannot find enough words to describe the fascination inspired by this extraordinary landscape, shaped by years of eruptions, explosions and lava flows. Its beauty is astonishing, and its power is overwhelming!
Timanfaya National Park © Julie Marienval
The rest of the stage is very easy for David, who rides downhill and catches up with me in no time at El Golfo (a green lagoon on a black sand beach). We then head to Playa Blanca via the Salinas de la Laguna de Janubio.
El Golfo and Las Salinas de la Laguna de Janubio © Julie Marienval
El Golfo and Las Salinas de la Laguna de Janubio © Julie Marienval
From Playa Blanca to Arrecife
Above all, this stage is a chance to ride through La Geria again. I savour the opportunity to cycle through these black lava deserts, divided into distinctive vineyard plots.
Arriving in Arrecife, following the coast through Puerto del Carmen, feels like a return to civilisation.
La Geria and Arrecife © Julie Marienval
La Geria and Arrecife © Julie Marienval
Arrecife
This last day of freedom, before our flight to another adventure hiking on Tenerife, gives our “tireless” David a chance to head back for one final ride in Timanfaya Natural Park, while I wander around the capital.
We will certainly return to this island so that I can explore it by bike.
Julie in her speed machine © David Praire
See the route from this travelogue
Planning a cycling trip on Lanzarote?
Cycling and walking reveal different sides of Lanzarote; Muriel’s account of ten days on foot offers another perspective on the island.
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Article written by
David Praire
CEO
David brings both his energy and experience to GrandAngle.Travel. His unique background — combining a rigorous academic education with an intense sporting career as a cross-country ski instructor and former high-level… Read more
