From Connemara to the Aran Islands, walking tells the landscape layer by layer. Granite gives way to limestone, paths cross peat, and the Atlantic remains almost always in view. This journal follows our route through Killary Harbour, Inishbofin, Inishmore and the Burren. It shares what we saw without claiming to sum up Ireland or its people.
Killary Harbour © François Ribard
From Killary Harbour to Inishbofin
Our journey begins at the edge of Killary Harbour, a narrow glacial valley opening onto the sea, then reaches the village of Leenane. The slopes are sparsely wooded and Scottish Blackface sheep occupy the pastures.
Scottish Blackface sheep at Killary Harbour © François Ribard
The landscape also recalls the Great Famine. We follow a route now called the “Famine Road”, associated with works carried out during that period. Further on, Kylemore Castle was built from 1867. The estate became a Benedictine abbey in the twentieth century.
Kylemore Abbey © François Ribard
We reach Cleggan, then the ferry to Inishbofin. The island combines beaches, coastal cliffs and wet moorland. Walking loops allow time to observe the reefs and small settlements of low houses.
Peat stacks on Inishbofin © François Ribard
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Walking among Inishmore’s stone walls
After returning via Clifden and Roundstone, we board for Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands.
On Inishmore © François Ribard
Limestone now dominates. The film “Man of Aran” by Robert J. Flaherty, filmed in 1934, fixed an image of the island that today requires perspective. On the ground, we find the large rock slabs, the stone walls and the old stone fortifications.
Dún Dúchathair on Inishmore © François Ribard
Granite, however, has not completely disappeared. Imposing erratic boulders, transported by glaciers from Connemara, still rest on the limestone.
Granite boulder left by glaciers © François Ribard
The Aran Islands nourished several literary works. John Millington Synge drew part of his inspiration from there. Liam O’Flaherty, author of “Famine”, was born on Inishmore. A memorial pays homage to him near Dún Aonghasa.
A day allows you to approach the cliffs and walk among the stone walls. Elsewhere, the coastline eases and reveals beaches or rock ledges where we spot a few seals.
Kilmurvy Beach © François Ribard
From Doolin to the Burren
During the crossing to Doolin, we observe gulls, guillemots and northern gannets. In the evening, music brings locals and travellers together in the village pubs.
Northern Gannet © François Ribard
There remain the Cliffs of Moher, then a walk through limestone hills and open valleys in the Burren. Limestone flora settles in the rock fissures. Our journey ends at Ballyvaughan, on the south coast of Galway Bay.
The Cliffs of Moher © François Ribard
These changing lights on the ocean make us want to return. To plan your own route, compare our hikes in Ireland and check the difficulty level of each stay.
