For four autumn days, the Grand Angle team put down their bags in Aubrac to go walking, try electric mountain biking and rediscover the pleasure of travelling together. This journal recounts our 44 km cycling loop, our hikes and the stops that shaped our weekend.
The trip took place in October 2020. Routes, opening times and access conditions may have changed since then. Here, we share our first-hand account and useful links to help you plan a weekend in Aubrac at your own pace.
The Grand Angle team on the trails of Aubrac on electric mountain bikes © Oriane Tempé
Thursday 08 October: setting off for Aubrac in glorious sunshine
After a day at work at the agency, we climb aboard our minibus and another car and set off for Aubrac in glorious sunshine. This high volcanic and granite plateau lies where Aveyron, Cantal and Lozère meet. The road is long and winding, but we enjoy the landscapes passing before our eyes. After a brief stop at a restaurant in Langogne, we arrive at Granges de Bigose (Rimeize), accommodation on the GR65 Camino de Santiago route, which you can discover on the trails between Le Puy-en-Velay and Aumont-Aubrac, or on the next section from Aumont to Conques
Granges de Bigose on the Camino de Santiago route © Thomas Praire & Quentin Vanaker
It is already getting late. Our host Thierry gives us a warm welcome, and we soon head to bed. An active day awaits us tomorrow!
Friday 09 October: a day of electric mountain biking
Today’s plan: a ride on electric mountain bikes! For many of us, this is a first, and we are all eager to explore the region. Starting from Nasbinals, you can choose from 8 routes ranging from 16 to 44 km. We choose the longest loop! 44 km, following waymarked route no. 7 towards Brion. Helmet, bike, water bottle… and we are off along the trails of the Aubrac plateaux.
Electric mountain bike ride towards Brion (Aubrac) © Pascale Moretti & Quentin Vanaker
With its wide-open spaces, forests and pastures, the Aubrac plateau reveals beautiful steppe-like landscapes in the gentle autumn sunshine. We come across herds of Aubrac cattle, easily recognised by their kohl-lined eyes, accompanied by imposing bulls.
Herd of cows and bulls © Justine Moglia & Oriane Tempé
Aubrac cow © Adobestock
Our route takes us through incredibly peaceful little stone villages, past countless shepherds' shelters known as “burons”.
Buron and church in Aubrac © Thomas & David Praire
The weather remains glorious, allowing us to enjoy a pleasant picnic break before setting off again.
The Grand Angle team enjoying a picnic © Oriane Tempé
We still have around fifteen kilometres to cover. EASY! The electric assistance really comes into its own in these beautiful rolling landscapes. A few turns of the pedals and we are back in Nasbinals.
Electric mountain biking in Aubrac © Thomas Praire & Adrien Ozanon
We make our way leisurely back to Rimeize to enjoy our accommodation. While some try to make friends with our host’s geese and ducks, Tic and Tac, others take some time to relax in the Nordic hot tub and sauna available to us.
Geese and ducks at Les Granges de Bigose © David Praire & Lauriane Simeoni
Wellness area at Les Granges de Bigose (photo taken in winter) © Granges de Bigose
After enjoying a small glass of kir made with Birlou, a local apple and chestnut aperitif, we sit down to feast on the famous aligot, a skilful blend of mashed potatoes and young Cantal cheese (less than 48 hours old)… absolutely delicious!
Aligot, a culinary speciality of Lozère and Aveyron - Dining room at Les Granges de Bigose © Lauriane Simeoni & Granges de Bigose
At the end of the evening, some head out for a short night-time walk to listen for the bellowing of stags and gaze at the stars… In the end, we enjoyed a beautiful starry night, but had no luck hearing the stags. We’ll have to try our luck again another time!
Saturday 10 October: Lake Charpal and Château de La Baume
This morning, we wake up to thick fog… Never mind! It does nothing to dampen our enthusiasm. We put on our hiking boots and drive towards Lake Charpal, perched at an altitude of 1330m, the starting point for our walk.
Cows on the roads of Aubrac © Thomas Praire
Located in Lozère, Lake Charpal is now one of the sources used to supply Mende and neighbouring communities with drinking water. There is little in the landscape to suggest this purpose as we arrive at the water’s edge.
Lake Charpal (Lozère) © Adrien Ozanon
The Charpal plateau is part of the Natura 2000 network. A maintained trail circles the lake, passing close to peat bogs and lakeside flora. On our outing, we covered around 8,7 km in three hours.
Around Lake Charpal (Lozère) © David Praire
Despite the cold and a few scattered showers, we set off around the lake. The walk is easy, and we appreciate the peaceful surroundings. Although we don’t see the ducks and other birds that usually inhabit the area (Eurasian coots, common pochards, grey herons…), we spot lovely mushrooms along the way. Yes, it’s mushroom season!
Mushrooms - Lake Charpal (Lozère) © David Praire & Justine Moglia
We finish our circuit of the lake and quickly eat our picnic so we can get back into the warmth of the minibus.
After a quick coffee or hot chocolate in Monts-de-Randon to warm up, we continue the day’s programme with a visit to Château de La Baume in Prinsuéjols (Lozère).
Château de La Baume © Quentin Vanaker
Known as “the little Versailles of Gévaudan”, La Baume is a privately owned château, listed as a historic monument, that has retained much of its original decor. Its interiors beautifully combine the austere style of Gévaudan (early 17th century) with the more refined style of the 18th century, inspired by Italian artists and pieces produced by the workshops of Versailles.
Much to our delight, the sun finally makes an appearance, and we take the opportunity to explore the château’s grounds.
Pond at Château de La Baume © Adrien Ozanon
We then take a guided tour of the château. The rooms feature furniture, wood panelling, tapestries and paintings. One room is devoted to Emmanuel de Las Cases, Napoleon’s memoirist, and memorabilia relating to his stay on Saint Helena.
We then return to Les Granges de Bigose.
As we are also here to work, the rest of the day is devoted to a work meeting.
Before dinner, we make sure to enjoy one last session in the sauna and Nordic hot tub after such a chilly day!
Then it is time for dinner, and once again, Thierry and his wife Valérie treat us to a delicious meal. On the menu are country-style pâté, lentils with salmon and, to finish… coupétade with pears and prunes, a local speciality made with French toast that we are all trying for the first time. Yum!
Coupétade, a culinary speciality from Lozère © Adrien Ozanon
The evening ends in good spirits: board games, Génépi liqueur and a game of billard Nicolas…
Sunday 11 October: back to the Vercors
A leisurely start and one last breakfast at Thierry’s.
Temperatures have dropped considerably again this morning, so we are quite happy to climb aboard the minibus and head for the Vercors. On the way back, we take a different route with plenty of twists and turns, but it is well worth it for the beautiful landscapes in their rich autumn colours… a brief stop in Mars (Ardèche)… a few snowflakes… and we are already near Valence, where we share one last picnic together.
Village of Mars (Ardèche) - A break near Valence © David Praire
Then we head up through the Gorges de la Bourne and arrive back home on the plateau. We say goodbye outside the Grand Angle office in Méaudre, all delighted with this wonderful weekend: “We’ll have to do it again!”:)
To discover the Aubrac for yourself, take a look at our single-base holiday between Margeride, Gévaudan and Aubrac. Our walking journal from the Aubrac to Conques complements this account for those who prefer walking from place to place.
Text credit: © Lauriane Simeoni
Photo credits: © David & Thomas Praire, Adrien Ozanon, Quentin Vanaker, Pascale Moretti, Oriane Tempé, Justine Moglia & Lauriane Simeoni, from the Grand Angle team.
