It was an adventure with three friends that I had been thinking about for several months. So when we found out we could get together in early September to make it happen, we jumped at the chance. Still, it took us a little while to settle on this section of the Camino de Santiago; other sections of the Camino de Santiago in France or Spain, as well as the Stevenson Trail, were also on the table.
Finally, after hearing about other people’s experiences and poring over articles and videos, we decided to set off on the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy-en-Velay to reach Aubrac, following the route also known as the GR65. It is also one of the most popular sections, and we would soon understand why: this famous trail has so much to offer, from its varied landscapes and rich historical heritage to its local cuisine. Here is our story…
Arriving in Le Puy-en-Velay and exploring its architectural gems
Several kilometres before arriving in Le Puy-en-Velay, we could already recognise the town from the road above it, with its famous Rocher de l’Aiguilhe and the statue of Notre-Dame de France. These are two sights not to miss, along with the equally famous cathedral. We therefore spent the afternoon visiting these must-see landmarks.
We started with the cathedral, which immediately impressed us with its imposing presence and the charming cobbled streets around it. The monument is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of France’s favourite landmarks. We, too, were captivated by the building, its domes and its interior frescoes.
Le Puy-en-Velay Cathedral © Adrien Ozanon
We then took the opportunity to collect our “credencial”, or pilgrim passport, from the pilgrims' association: a document that gives access to certain accommodation and also serves as a souvenir, since most shops, restaurants and places to stay add a little stamp whenever you stop by. Next, we headed to the statue of Notre-Dame de France, standing 22,70 m tall, which was built at the town’s highest point (757 m) in 1860.
Statue of Notre-Dame de France © Anouk Anglade
We finished with the rock and its chapel of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe, which I found the most impressive of all. It offers an exceptional panoramic view of the town and the surrounding volcanic plateaux… so save some energy to climb its 82 m and 268 steps! The rock, formed by volcanic activity and standing alone in the middle of the town, seems almost unreal at first sight. And when you look up and see its chapel and the three oratories that make it up, perched on the summit, they seem just as unreal!
Rock and abbey of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe © Adobe Stock - Pernelle voyage
After this lovely visit to the city’s trio of classic sights, it was time for a good meal to discover the region’s specialities. We passed plenty of inviting-looking restaurants in the old town, but unfortunately they were all fully booked! Admittedly, it was a sunny Saturday in September (the peak season for walking the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy-en-Velay to Aubrac), but we hadn’t expected to see “fully booked” signs at nearly 15 restaurants… Finally, on returning to our hotel, we found the last available table in its restaurant. And it turned out to be an excellent choice! The pork knuckle with carrot mousse and the famous Le Puy lentils delighted everyone’s taste buds. A little verbena liqueur as a digestif rounded off this feast fit for a king.
A typical meal in Velay with its verbena liqueur © Adrien Ozanon
Day 1: Le Puy-en-Velay – St Privat d’Allier; 24 km
After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we were off, beginning our little pilgrimage adventure along the GR65 from Le Puy to Aumont-Aubrac! At first, we’d considered taking our tents on this trip, but the extra weight and the very chilly nights forecast made us change our minds and choose to stay in gîtes and inns. The first few kilometres with our already well-loaded backpacks and the morning chill quickly reassured us that we’d made the right choice! A lovely little climb just outside the town soon got us into the rhythm and spirit of the walk. Before long, we were on a plateau with a beautiful horizon ahead of us. A succession of lovely stone-built villages followed, along with numerous “single-building farmsteads” or “single-building farmhouses”, a traditional local type of dwelling where everything was brought together: the stable and living quarters were under the same roof.
A single-building farmstead, a traditional dwelling in Velay © Adrien Ozanon
Not decided yet? Let us keep in touch.
A route idea, a seasonal tip, a date that opens up: one letter a week, written by the advisors who design the trips.
Your weekly dose of travel inspiration.
We also passed the Lac de l’Œuf, a curious place we’d spotted beforehand but weren’t quite sure what to expect from. In any case, it’s anything but a lake… It is actually a peat bog, a wetland rich in sphagnum moss (a type of moss) that holds a certain amount of water and also acts as an excellent carbon sink. After one final descent, we arrived in St Privat d’Allier, a beautiful little village with plenty of charm.
Arriving in Saint Privat d’Allier © Anouk Anglade
Day 2: St Privat d’Allier – Saugues; 21 km
In the morning, as we left the inn, we nearly found ourselves held up by… Chouky! The owners' dog was beside himself with excitement when he saw us in the courtyard, and he had so much energy to spare that we were almost tempted to take him with us! Before rejoining the official Camino de Santiago route on the GR65, we decided to visit the castle and church overlooking the village and admire the magnificent view from up there.
A statue overlooking St Privat d’Allier © Anouk Anglade
About 6 km after leaving St Privat d’Allier, we come to a chapel and one of the most beautiful highlights of this stage: the Chapelle de Rochegude, or rather its remaining ruins. Built in the 13th century, it was used as a lookout and to monitor the routes through the area. And perched on its promontory, with an uninterrupted 360° view of the Allier gorges and valley, it is certainly hard to imagine a better spot!
View from the Chapelle de Rochegude © Adrien Ozanon
We then begin the long descent along the GR65 towards Monistrol d’Allier, a small village nestled deep in the Allier gorges at an altitude of 610 m. When we arrive, it almost feels like an abandoned village: everything is closed, and the streets are practically deserted. The hydroelectric power station, connected to the dam a little further upstream, which is almost 100 years old, is also hard to miss as we cross the Allier. As soon as we leave the village, we are straight into it: the biggest climb of these 4 days of walking along the GR65 between Le Puy and Aumont-Aubrac. A climb of 500 to 600 m brings us to a plateau at around 1000–1100 m, an altitude we will barely dip below over the next few days. Fortunately, to distract us and take our minds off the effort, the climb is once again dotted with superb views of the Allier and its gorges, this time from the other side.
View of Monistrol d’Allier and its gorges © Adrien Ozanon
Once we reach the top, we appreciate the fairly flat terrain for several kilometres before the final short descent towards Saugues, where we will spend the night.
Day 3: Saugues – Les Faux; 28km
Saugues is a large village by local standards (1800 inhabitants) and is considered the “capital” of Gévaudan. Above all, though, the village is famous as the place where the legendary Beast of Gévaudan terrorised the area, so much so that a museum has even been dedicated to it.
Saugues and its legendary Beast of Gévaudan watching over the village © Adrien Ozanon
A few kilometres after setting off, in beautiful sunshine, we cannot resist stopping for a treat at the Ferme des fromages, a beautifully renovated farm that welcomes pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago as well as hosting weddings. As soon as we see the menu, we give in completely and cannot help trying everything: a delicious selection of four local cheeses, a lovely glass of milk from the farm and coupétade, a traditional dessert from Lozère made from… stale bread (but rest assured, it is excellent!). We have to admit that it was hard to get going again after that!
A break at the Ferme des fromages © Adrien Ozanon
We then enter the wildest stretch of this trip along the GR65, on the high plateaus of the Margeride, whose highest point reaches 1326 m. We alternate between vast open plateaus and forests; the scenery is a feast for the eyes!
The high plateaus of the Margeride at 1320m © Adrien Ozanon
We pass the Ferme du Sauvage, another place well known to pilgrims, as it is the only accommodation for several kilometres around. Unfortunately, there was no room left for us when we made our booking.
Ferme du Sauvage © Adrien Ozanon
Before reaching Les Faux, we pass another chapel that is impossible to miss, especially in the glow of the evening light: the Chapelle Saint-Roch.
Chapelle Saint-Roch © Adrien Ozanon
At the end of this long stage, a good local beer is just what we need when we arrive at the guesthouse!
Day 4: Les Faux – Aumont-Aubrac; 20 km
This morning, as we leave the guesthouse for Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, the next village, we realise that our luck with the weather so far is about to turn. Fortunately, we only get a few drops of rain during the morning. In Saint-Alban, we take the opportunity to have a quick look around the castle, then set off again, counting on one of the two snack bars or restaurants marked along the route for our lunch stop. Unfortunately, neither is open at lunchtime, but we do find shelter in a small pilgrim welcome centre, where a lovely hot chocolate warms us up after the rain. We muster the motivation to cover the last eight kilometres of the GR65 to Aumont-Aubrac as quickly as possible; we will have to wait until dinner to recharge! After walking through one last pine forest and past a few bull enclosures (though we do not see any bulls), we reach Aumont-Aubrac and arrive at the Ferme du Barry, where we put down our backpacks one last time. According to walkers we met along the way, the farm is renowned for its aligot: given today’s lunch, we are doubly eager to find out for ourselves! And there is no doubt about it: this dish, so famous in Aubrac, lived up to all our expectations, especially after a good day’s walking! Melted Aubrac tomme cheese, aged for just two days, mixed with potatoes and seasoned with a few spices: a simple recipe for happiness after twenty kilometres on foot… especially with good wine and good meat alongside it. We could not have asked for a better way to round off our trip.
Aligot, a traditional Aubrac speciality that is a must-try © Anouk Anglade
We leave these four days of walking on the GR65 between Le Puy and Aumont-Aubrac with our heads full of memories! One thing is certain: like us, you will be treated to breathtaking sights if you choose this stretch of the Way of St James from Le Puy-en-Velay to Aubrac, with landscapes ranging from volcanic plateaus to pine forests and the wide-open expanses of Aubrac. There are also the villages with their stone houses, chapels, castles and churches, not to mention, of course, the warm welcome and friendliness of the locals, and the local food to savour to your heart’s content. After these four brief but intense days on the Camino de Santiago between Le Puy-en-Velay and Aumont-Aubrac, we cannot wait to return next year and continue our little pilgrimage…
The finish-line photo on arrival:) © Anouk Aanglade
Planning a walk along the Way of St James?
If this account has inspired you, Grand Angle offers similar trips, such as:
- The same route along the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac, but #with shorter, more accessible stages and no luggage transfers, completing the journey in 5 days instead of 4.
- And for those who would like to keep going, you can continue your journey along the Camino de Santiago from Aumont-Aubrac to Conques.
- Would you prefer more comfort and like to discover the treasures of Aubrac? Discover our single-centre trip based at Thierry’s gîte near Aumont-Aubrac. He will be delighted to welcome you and tell you about his region.
Text credit © Adrien Ozanon
