Bicycles have something wonderful about them: they awaken the child inside us. Do you remember that feeling of freedom you experienced on your first pedal stroke without training wheels and without an adult? The freedom, the joy, and the excitement of the beginning of an adventure. We’re going to have a wonderful time on the magnificent Loire cycling itinerary. The sun, rare this summer, bathes our first morning—it’s a wonderful sign!
The bicycles are technical gems, the saddles are plush (for now), everyone takes hold of their bike. We optimize what we pack in our panniers with the essentials for the day, because yes, on a bike, there’s no point loading up your back—luggage will be transported each day from one hotel to the next.
Day 1: Amboise - Tours
After a quick reminder of road-sharing rules and cycling etiquette, we’re ready for our journey—we’ll cover 150km between Amboise and Saumur on the Loire Valley Bike Trail, with no fewer than 7 major castles dotting our route along the river and its tributaries.
Kilometer zero: the view is “royal.” The Amboise Castle stands before us, flags fluttering in the wind, sublime in the morning light. A few hot-air balloons rise into the sky, completing the picture.
The royal Amboise Castle © Charlotte Laventureux
By the way, did you know that the Mona Lisa was completed at Amboise? Back from the Italian wars, Francis I brings home more than just victories. Captivated by the artistic fervor that was stirring Italy at the time, he invites numerous renowned artists to reside in his Amboise Castle. The breath of fresh air from the Italian Renaissance now blows across Touraine and soon covers nearly all the medieval fortresses in the region, giving birth to a new architectural style—that of the French Renaissance.
Among the illustrious artists invited by the king to Amboise, Leonardo da Vinci, bringing the Mona Lisa with him, settles until his death at the Château du Clos Lucé, just steps from the royal castle. A great friendship will bind these two visionaries, and thus the genius will leave an indelible mark on the region.
We leave the castle and reach the bike path along the Loire. It’s market day on the quays. Brass bands, live chickens, cuisines from around the world, roasters, a rainbow of local fruits and vegetables—it’s a festival for the senses. We take a few minutes to shop for lunch, a foretaste of a picnic that promises to be delicious.
A colorful picnic © Charlotte Laventureux
A few drops threaten, but no worries—we settle under the overhang of Jacqueline’s troglodyte barn. Excited “Wows” ring out; the place is welcoming, with wrought-iron tables, placemats, a display of old winemaking tools, and flower-filled vases… Jacqueline lives across the way and, for the pleasure of it, makes the overhang of her old barn available to nice cyclists like us. Joy is in the air.
We gain some height in the heart of the Montlouis appellation, wind at our backs, the panorama over the Loire below is superb. Our active meditation comes to an end at the Montlouis café, the children play in the fountain, Louis, 4 years old, climbs back into the small trailer without his shoes, his socks will dry before we arrive in Tours.
At the foot of the majestic Saint Gatien Gothic cathedral, in the heart of Tours, our charming hotel welcomes us, the suitcases are already in the rooms, what a lovely surprise!
Day 2: Tours – Azay le Rideau
Monday morning in Tours, remote work has taken over part of the city, which is all the better for cyclists, leaving the city is all the more serene. We leave Tours and the Loire for the Indre, a waterway full of charm that unfolds before our eyes pastoral landscapes until Savonnière. This village nestled in a bend of the river offers us a postcard-perfect view. Cycling along the Loire is a living route, shopkeepers know well that cyclists have no set hours, cafés, restaurants, bakeries and waffle stalls are open continuously, each stop is a surprise and the welcome warm.
Soon, Villandry château reveals itself through the vegetation. A double row of plane trees a hundred metres long guides us to the château. The foliage that mingles above our heads creates a perfect vegetable tunnel, worthy of a Tim Burton film. Whether you have green fingers or not, it hardly matters when you visit the Villandry gardens. The magic works, that is all there is to it. The Villandry gardens are one of those things that nourish the senses and instinctively bring well-being. Worthy of a painting, the proportions are perfect, the colours striking, harmony at the heart of the subject, and one could admire the gardeners' work for hours.
The Villandry gardens © Charlotte Laventureux
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Filled to the brim with beauty and with a rested mind, we set off again towards Azay le Rideau. We leave the valleys to reach the plateaus and we drive according to the cool and sunny afternoon among the sunflower fields. It is towards another waterway that we head at the whim of white villages made of Tuffeau stone. The Indre welcomes us in the most beautiful way: it bathes one of the region’s jewels, Azay le Rideau château. Small in size, it remains nonetheless of extreme beauty, in its picturesque setting in the heart of a wooded park with rare and sometimes multi-century-old botanical essences. A tasty dinner will close out this beautiful day.
Azay le Rideau château and the day’s dinner © Charlotte Laventureux
Day 3: Azay le Rideau - Chinon
This morning begins gently, along the Indre and the private gardens that border it. There is poetry on this route. We join the Loire at Bréhémont, classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. It is impossible to resist its café whose terrace overlooks the river and the wooden barges from another era parked there. It is cool this morning, a hot chocolate is welcome.
We set off again warmed, the wind at our backs. The expression takes on its full meaning when cycling, for yes, with the wind behind you, you speed forward effortlessly, and the sensation of power and freedom is exhilarating.
Without warning, the route takes a turn at 90°, and the magical and instantly recognizable silhouette of Château d’Ussé rises before us. Does this ring a bell? And if I tell you: Walt Disney, Sleeping Beauty? Ah yes, you see it now? This castle, through its beauty, inspired Charles Perrault to write the Sleeping Beauty fairy tale. We now climb the seemingly endless staircase of Aurora’s tower, and high above, we rediscover the story. Maleficent, the Prince, the fairies—they are all here. We explore the castle’s hidden corners, cross through the wooden attic filled to the ceiling with odds and ends, abracadabra… Our childlike hearts are filled with joy.
Château d’Ussé © Charlotte Laventureux
Cycling group in front of Château d’Ussé © Charlotte Laventureux
All this had whetted our appetites, and after a pleasant picnic, we continue along a shaded path between the Loire and small ponds. The frogs sing.
We gain some elevation, the hill gets the heart racing—quite rare in this area. We must cross from one valley to another, heading now towards the Vienne. The gentle downhill section, with the wind still giving us invisible assistance, allows us to eagerly enjoy the agricultural landscape unfolding before us.
Majestic above the Vienne and the medieval town, the Royal Fortress of Chinon stands proudly. A major episode in French history took place here: the first meeting between Joan of Arc and her good Dauphin, the future King Charles VII. The rest, we know it—Joan of Arc, armed with her divine convictions, succeeded in persuading the king to besiege the English at Orléans, thus sealing the outcome of the Hundred Years' War.
It feels good to be in Chinon on a beautiful summer afternoon… A terrace or beach volleyball on the beach, there is something for everyone.
Day 4: Chinon - Saumur
This time, the Vienne welcomes us along its banks, we are still on cycle paths, no vehicles, we can ride peacefully, alone with our thoughts or chatting with our neighbor. The coolness of the morning quickly gives way, and we take breaks to remove layers of clothing and quench our thirst. I was discussing cinema with Anaïs, and it happens I have a little bag of popcorn to share with the group. The topics of conversation are as rich as the group members themselves, we are getting to know each other well, and humor and laughter brighten the breaks.
Tadam! A bridge, a breathtaking view: Welcome to Candes Saint Martin, at the confluence of the Vienne and the Loire. The village has amazing charm: hollyhocks, the sun illuminating the tuffeau stone, a cat resting on a window ledge… The magic works again.
We pause for a cultural moment on the forecourt of the Collegiate Church of Saint Martin, where young seminarians invite us to let the stones speak.
We take the picnic a few metres further on, feet in the Loire. An opportunity to taste a local speciality, an almond cake with orange liqueur, “Loire’s Sparkle” is a success. This burst of flavour and sugar gives us the energy needed to make a small detour of 12 km in order to discover a mythical site: the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud.
The Royal Abbey of Fontevraud and its cloister © Charlotte Laventureux
Eleanor and Henry II; Two of the four royal recumbent figures in the royal necropolis of the Plantagenets at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud © Charlotte Laventureux
A small rolling road leads us to the Abbey, the high point: 80 m, no danger of running out of oxygen. Impossible to resist the magic of the place, 900 years of history are carved into the stone and this coexists beautifully with the modern sobriety brought by the renovation and rehabilitation of the site. It would take several days to enjoy this place, but already we must leave for our final stage: Saumur, where beautiful surprises await us. The Saumur vineyard is welcoming, the grapes ripen peacefully, the harvest season is approaching fast. In Turquant, the children marvel “look at the giant metal ant hanging from the cliff!” Indeed, here many artists have invested the vast troglodyte caves to make them creation workshops. We cross the street slowly, letting our eyes rest on the many creations and curiosities.
Barely further on, at Souzay-Champigny, we enter a tunnel carved into the rock. The bikes roll in the darkness and damp coolness, our eyes adjust slowly, a few natural light shafts punctuate the path. We are in the old commercial street of Souzay-Champigny, carved by villagers in the 10th century.
Unusual troglodyte commercial street of Souzay-Champigny © Charlotte Laventureux
The surprise is lovely, the break refreshing, it’s time to reach Saumur by a pleasant cycle path as close as possible to the Loire. The vegetation of the banks brings us shade, the wind carries us the scent of the river and aquatic plants, we fully enjoy our last kilometres.
Tonight is a bit of a celebration with dinner on the terrace, finally a beautiful summer evening! Laughter burst out at the memories of funny moments experienced together. Some are already envisioning another part of the itinerary for a future stay because, indeed, cycling holidays have this wonderful quality: they recharge the batteries and fill the heart with nature and optimism.
Are you planning a cycling trip in the Loire?
If this story has inspired you, Grand Angle offers you similar stays such as:
- #The Loire Châteaux with family, from Amboise to Saumur
- The Loire by Bike, from Blois to Angers
- or explore the complete Grand Angle catalogue of our Loire cycling stays
Need a bit more inspiration? Let yourself be transported by our other illustrated travel stories in French cycle touring:
- “Discover the Loire Valley as a Family”
- “Cycling Through Loire Valley Châteaux”
Text and photo credits © Charlotte Laventureux
