Verdon Gorges, Europe’s Largest Canyon!

Turquoise water between limestone cliffs - Verdon Gorges - Provence

Discover Sylvie’s day-by-day account of a guided hike discovering the Verdon Gorges.

Verdon Gorges

Verdon Gorges © Pixabay

Day 1: Departure for the hike in the Verdon Gorges

The meeting point is at Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a small atypical Provençal village located on the edge of Lake Sainte-Croix, gateway to the Verdon Gorges.
The hikers get to know each other: “Where are you from?”, “Oh, from Brittany, it’s pretty there, but less mountainous!”, “Have you done group hikes before?”, “It’s my first one! You’ll see, it’s always an adventure!” …
We don’t have time to visit the village, the Gorges are waiting for us. We’ll return there on the last day. Kilometers ahead of us and plenty of laughter.
From Carajuan Bridge, passing through Sublime Point, the famous Blanc-Martel Trail and the ascent of Grand Margès, this journey promises us a loop around Europe’s largest canyon!
No sporting performance for me, I’d been dreaming of discovering the Verdon Gorges for several years, I came for the scenery!
A bit of disappointment at the end of the first day, the Verdon was keeping a low profile. Just time for a swim in its cold, torrential waters, before reaching Trigance via Casseyère Ridge, a superb viewpoint to spot griffon vultures.

Griffon vulture - Verdon Gorges

Hike in the Verdon - Casseyère Ridge Viewpoint - Griffon vulture above Verdon © Sylvie Poulain

Day 2: From Trigance to Rougon via Sublime Point

Second day, the group sets off again after a night at Trigance lodge and an astronomical exploration. The welcome, meals, and accommodation matched the group’s good spirits. Tongues loosened, pairs formed…
We cross the hamlet of Entreverges before stopping for a picnic at Rancoumas viewpoint. From the top of the promontory, we see the Verdon again. The height of the cliffs is impressive!

Hike in the Verdon

Hike in the Verdon - Rancoumas Viewpoint - View of the Verdon © Sylvie Poulain

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The descent is technical but arrival at Tusset Bridge is dazzling. The green waters that give their name to the Verdon are brilliant! We’re there, the Verdon is indeed there, living up to its reputation. The view of the Verdon Gorges from the famous Sublime Point lives up to its name. We leave with sparkling eyes.

Hike in the Verdon

Hike in the Verdon - View of the Verdon from Sublime Point © Sylvie Poulain

After Sublime Point, we spot the hilltop village of Rougon, where we spend the night. The Rougon lodge has been completely renovated, comfort is appreciated and hikers are welcomed with open arms, always with a smile. A game of pétanque and to bed!

Day 3: The Blanc-Martel Trail and its stunning view of the Verdon Gorges

On the third day, we set off smiling, singing and laughing to tackle the famous Blanc-Martel Trail. With the Baou tunnel, the handrails and the incredible ladder at the Brèche Imbert, this trail lets us follow the Verdon, surrounded by cliffs each higher than the last. We are hiking in the heart of the biggest canyon in Europe. The scenery is simply breathtaking!
The last climb up to the Chalet de la Maline is done in silence, as the elevation gain is significant. The Chalet de la Maline overlooks the Gorges, and the Verdon glitters far below.
And to think that we were having lunch beside it just a few hours ago!
At the Refuge de la Maline, we sleep for two nights. It’s a short break from our nomadic “life”. Our host spoils us with a much-appreciated Provençal meal.

Hike in the Verdon - View of the Verdon from Chalet de la Maline

Hiking in the Verdon - View of the Verdon from the Chalet de la Maline © Sylvie Poulain

Day 4: Bastidon Trail and Barbin Plateau to La Palud

There’s no more reserve among the members of the group. We walk together, we sleep together, and good spirits accompany us on the fourth day. We go down the Route des Crêtes to the Bastidon trail. The cliff-edge path lets us catch a glimpse (or not) of the Verdon at the bottom of the Gorges. After lunch, we climb the Barbin Plateau. The walk through the forest is quiet, and we hear only the sound of a few bells attached to the cows' necks, without seeing them.
The descent gives us a magnificent panorama over the village of La Palud-sur-Verdon and the more distant mountains. Our reward on arrival: tasting a delicious cake from the La Paluarde pastry shop.

Hike in the Verdon

Hiking in the Verdon - Descent from the Plateau - View of La Palud © Sylvie Poulain

Day 5: La Palud to Aiguines via the summit of the Grand Margès

On the fifth day, we set off at 7:00 am. Storms are forecast, and the stage includes the climb of the Grand Margès, which peaks at 1576m. There’s no question of facing a storm at the summit.
After crossing the Verdon on the Estellier footbridge, we begin the climb. It comes in stages, but the elevation gain is exhausting.
And at the top, it was worth it! The view over Lake Sainte-Croix and the Valensole plateau brings back our smiles. It’s a shame that the storm is threatening and the weather is a little gloomy.

Hike in the Verdon

Hiking in the Verdon - View of Lake Sainte-Croix from the top of the Grand Margès © Sylvie Poulain

The descent is endless and leg-breaking, but at last, we spot Aiguines. It has been a long day, with nearly 10 hours of walking! It ends with a very informative visit to the woodturners' museum, and dinner at the Aiguines hotel-gîte. We are served a gigantic portion of lasagne!

Day 6: Visit to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and the Crêtes de l’Ourbes

On the last day, we start with an early-morning visit to the very pretty village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, then join the Chaîne trail after a stop at the Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir chapel. The scramble up could almost be called climbing. At the top, we can see Mont Ventoux and, above all, admire the star of Moustiers.
After one last leg-breaking climb, we have lunch on the Ourbes ridge. It’s a lunch with a view of Lake Sainte-Croix, the Galetas Bridge and the Grand Margès, which made us suffer so much yesterday.

Hike in the Verdon

Hiking in Verdon - The Star of Moustiers Sainte-Marie © Sylvie Poulain

Back in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the stay is already coming to an end! We had our eyes opened. One last drink before parting ways, we reminisce about the travel anecdotes. We share memories, and we laugh.

And what about the physical aspect?

From a physical perspective, hiking in the Verdon Gorges is no casual walk, it is technical and demanding. There is almost never any flat terrain. I am ultimately quite proud of my performance.

The Verdon is truly enchanting. Group life is equally so. “You were right, what an adventure! Looking forward to the next hike!”

Has this testimony given you the urge to embark on your own beautiful sporting and human adventure? Discover our guided hiking stay in the Verdon Gorges!

Text & photo credits: © Sylvie Poulain

To discover other spectacular landscapes in France, consult our article dedicated to the most beautiful views in the country.

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