Let’s go for a 5 day getaway to discover 2 unmissable European capitals: Vienna and Prague!
We start our journey with a walking tour of the Austrian capital. The days promise to be full: Vienna is brimming with palaces, museums, churches and other historical monuments, all more magnificent and impressive than the last. For a complete tour of the imperial city, a whole week would not be too much! Before leaving, we make a note of the main places we want to visit, or that have been recommended to us. We equip ourselves with good shoes and set out to explore the city under beautiful sunshine: we had hesitated between walking or cycling through the city, and we finally opted for walking.
To reach the centre from our accommodation, located in the Laimgrube district, our steps lead us to discover the Karlplatz district and its famous Naschmarkt, the most popular market in Vienna. We walk through the fruit, vegetable, meat and spice stalls. The place also houses many restaurants.
We then admire the Secession Pavilion building, an exhibition space for the 19 artists who created the Vienna Secession artistic movement, then reach the Church of St. Charles Borromaeus, renowned as the most beautiful Baroque church in the city.
Secession Pavilion © Oriane Tempé
Church of St. Charles Borromaeus © Oriane Tempé
We then pass in front of the impressive Vienna State Opera, before reaching the Hofburg district. Around a corner, orchestra music catches our attention and draws us inside the Augustins Church, which hosts many classical music concerts in the evening. In the afternoon, it is the choir rehearsals that visitors may have the chance to hear.
For centuries, the Hofburg was the imperial residence of the Habsburg dynasty. Located in the heart of the city, it is much more than a palace. It is a true city within a city, composed of many imposing buildings such as the Austrian National Library, the Spanish Riding School, the Burgtheater and many museums. It is also possible to visit the imperial apartments of Empress Sissi and Emperor Franz Joseph.
At times, you feel transported to another era, with the many carriages circulating…
Josefplatz and the Austrian National Library © Oriane Tempé
Carriage on the Hofburg © Oriane Tempé
Spanish Riding School © Oriane Tempé
Stroll through the Volksgarten © Oriane Tempé
The Burgtheater from the Volksgarten gardens © Oriane Tempé
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A few steps from the Hofburg, the Gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral stands, magnificent with its roof of geometric patterns. Just behind, we reach the Graben, one of the most famous streets in central Vienna. For lunch, we choose a typical Austrian restaurant, where we enjoy the traditional Wiener Schnitzel, a breaded veal cutlet accompanied by Kartoffelsalat (potato salad).
St. Stephen’s Cathedral © Oriane Tempé
A must-do in Vienna: tasting Wienschnitzel © Oriane Tempé
It is equally impossible not to attend a classical music performance or opera when passing through Vienna. There is no shortage of choice. Every evening, many concerts are scheduled in churches throughout the city, at the opera or in concert halls.
We opted for a concert at the Musikverein, home of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. Knowing the reputation of the “Goldener Saal” (Golden Hall) for its acoustics, we chose a concert that combined classical music and opera in its programme. We were not disappointed by the performance—a superb concert!
The “Goldener Saal” (Golden Hall) of the Musikverein © Oriane Tempé
The next day, we continued our discovery of the city at Belvedere Palace, the “Viennese Versailles”; it was built in the early 18th century as a summer residence for Prince Eugene of Savoy. The gallery section is well worth a visit. It brings together many works by international and especially Austrian painters, notably the largest collection of Gustav Klimt paintings. We fell in love with his works and their blend of gold and floral motifs, but also with the paintings of German artist Caspar David Friedrich (who painted extensively the coasts of the Baltic, and notably the island of Rügen in Northern Germany).
Belvedere Palace © Oriane Tempé
We took advantage of a rainy and cloudy day to visit Schönbrunn Palace, whose 40 rooms are open to the public. It is a sumptuous castle, a testament to the life of the Habsburgs and the legacy of their Empire. We visited the apartments of Emperor Francis Joseph I and Empress Elizabeth, known as Sissi. We immersed ourselves in the atmosphere of yesteryear, and we indulged in imagining palace life. The visit follows a route through the various rooms and the audio guide provides historical explanations.
Schönbrunn Palace © Oriane Tempé
We ended our stay in Vienna with a walk in the Prater, a former hunting ground of the Habsburgs and now a large park divided into two: an amusement park reminiscent of a giant fairground and a wooded park ideal for walks on foot or by bike.
It is here that one of the emblems of Vienna is located: the giant wheel or “Riesenrad”, which offers a beautiful panorama of the city. One recalls one of the most famous scenes from the famous film “The 3 Man”…
The giant wheel of the Prater © Oriane Tempé
Vienna is (already) over, we head towards Prague by bus. The two capitals are well connected. Allow 4 to 4.5 hours by bus (Flixbus) or by train (Austrian Railways ÖBB).
Upon our arrival at Prague station, we headed to the city centre by tram, which is very convenient and fast for getting around; it gave us a first glimpse of the city.
After meeting our host for the next two days and dropping off our luggage, we set off to discover the old city “by night”. From the outset, we liked the city; we loved the atmosphere, a little warmer than in Vienna.
Prague is divided into two parts: on the left bank of the Vltava, there is the Lesser Town or “Malá Strana”. While on the right bank, you find the Old Town (“Staré Město”), which was once the Jewish quarter, a wealthy merchant district. The iconic link between the two banks is the Charles Bridge (named after Emperor Charles IV). You cannot help but appreciate crossing this medieval bridge and its Gothic and Romanesque towers that guard its entrance on both sides.
We spent a day exploring each of the two districts and started with the Old Town and its square, which forms the heart of the capital, enlivened during this period by the Easter market. Many buildings stand all around this square: St. Nicholas Church, Our Lady of Tyn Church, the Town Hall, and the Jan Hus Memorial.
Every hour, an impressive number of visitors gather in front of the astronomical clock on the Town Hall tower to watch it come to life. Keep your eyes wide open and observe the small details and figures that come to life!
Climbing to the top of the tower is definitely worthwhile. It’s even possible to see part of the astronomical clock mechanism while climbing the stairs. I recommend going early in the morning, right at opening, to avoid the crowds and queues.
The Old Town Square with the Town Hall tower and St. Nicholas Church © Oriane Tempé
The statues of the apostles that parade when the astronomical clock strikes © Oriane Tempé
Our Lady of Tyn Church, seen from the Town Hall tower © Oriane Tempé
Jan Hus Monument on the Old Town Square © Oriane Tempé
Don’t hesitate to enter St. Nicholas Church, a baroque masterpiece, particularly imposing and monumental.
St. Nicholas Church © Oriane Tempé
We then wandered through the charming little streets of the old city, with a tasty break to enjoy a Trdelník, a traditional pastry cooked on a spit, which you can find in several countries such as Hungary and Slovakia.
Tasting Trdelník on the Old Town Square © Oriane Tempé
Malostranská Square © Oriane Tempé
St. Vitus Cathedral © Oriane Tempé
Part of the cathedral is free but I recommend visiting it in its entirety.
Stained glass of the cathedral © Oriane Tempé
We descended from the castle through the gardens which offer a beautiful panorama of the city. From a distance, we spotted the districts and monuments we had visited the day before, and understand why the city is nicknamed “the city of a hundred spires”.
Not far from the castle district, we head towards another interesting viewpoint, at the top of Petřín Hill, which we reach by funicular.
View of Prague from the castle © Oriane Tempé
Strolling in Kampa Park, by the Vltava © Oriane Tempé
On our way back to the old city, we pass through Kampa Park, ideal for strolling and enjoying the sun! From the banks of the Vltava, we have a beautiful view of the Old Town and the Charles Bridge, which we crossed one last time.
To end this article on a sweet note, here’s an address you must not miss, recommended by a Czech friend: the Louvre Café. You can enjoy delicious pastries there! It’s also possible to eat there at any time of the day. Guaranteed treat!
Sweet break at the Louvre Café © Oriane Tempé
To leave Prague on a cycling journey, also discover our Prague to Passau bike trip, along the Vltava and then the Danube.
If you enjoyed this article, you can find our selection of trips to Austria in this article.
