From Logroño to Santiago de Compostela, then on to Cape Finisterre, Anne-Marie followed some of Spain’s Camino routes on an electric bike. Her journal takes us through Castile, inland Galicia and the coast, with a very personal perspective on the heritage, landscapes and welcome travellers receive. It helps put several Camino de Santiago routes in Spain into context and gives a sense of what you actually encounter on the Camino Francés, whether on foot or by bike.
My own Camino de Santiago is hardly orthodox! It starts in Spain and follows the Camino Francés from Logroño to Santiago de Compostela,
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral © Anne-Marie Billault
then continues to Cape Finisterre and meanders back through the small ports of the Costa da Morte before heading into inland Galicia again. This coastal loop follows the Camino del Norte in places.
Costa Norte © Anne-Marie Billault
All of this on an electric hybrid bike, with a few (rather large) hops by car, from León to Melide, and 30 km after Santiago.
Electric hybrid bikes on the Camino de Santiago routes © Anne-Marie Billault
My motivation was not particularly religious or spiritual. I love the power of Romanesque art and the elegance of Gothic architecture, and I knew the route was rich in heritage. I also wanted to discover this long-distance route, even its more repetitive stretches. The Camino Francés has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993; the Camino de Santiago routes were also certified as the Council of Europe’s first Cultural Route in 1987.
Churches on the Camino de Santiago routes © Anne-Marie Billault
Here are a few scenes that have stayed with me, along with some pointers to help place the routes we travelled.
Castile, between splendour and austerity
Meseta © Anne-Marie Billault
How can I put it? It’s on a par with the Beauce… good for meditation!
I want poppies!
Poppies © Anne-Marie Billault
And the daisies and cornflowers of my childhood, too.
An impressive rural heritage.
Rural heritage © Jean-Claude Praire
Here, there isn’t just 1 bell tower per village… more like 2 or 3, and real gems at that!
Spires reaching for the sky.
Burgos and León cathedrals © Anne-Marie Billault
Special mentions for Burgos, but above all León, my favourite!
In the evening, the city comes alive.
Tapas © Anne-Marie Billault
Atmosphere and tapas in Burgos.
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Three possible sections of the Camino Francés
Walking from Burgos to León © Anne-Marie Billault
Depending on how much time you have, you can walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Logroño, continue from Logroño to Burgos, or choose the section from Burgos to León.
Burgos © Adobestock
Inland Galicia, green and wild
Lush green landscape in Galicia © Anne-Marie Billault
After the open landscapes of Castile, we find ourselves back in green, rolling Galicia.
Granary © Anne-Marie Billault
Magnificent stone granaries.
Hiker on the Camino de Santiago routes © Anne-Marie Billault
Granite and flowers.
Exploring Galicia on foot or by bike
Hiking in Furelos on the Camino Francés, Galicia © Adobestock
Grand Angle invites you to discover the green landscapes of inland Galicia on foot from León to Santiago de Compostela and by bike from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.
Cyclist in front of the fortifications of Valença, Portugal © Adobestock
The coast of Galicia
Cape Finisterre
Cape Finisterre © Anne-Marie Billault
You won’t have the place to yourself, but it really is beautiful. A little like the coast of northern Brittany, with added warmth!
Santiago, time to recover.
Local restaurant © Anne-Marie Billault
A very local restaurant with delicious food…
Bonus: the Costa da Morte
Costa da Morte © Anne-Marie Billault
Its name recalls the many shipwrecks along this deeply indented coastline. On our bikes, what we remember most are the climbs and descents, the coves and the wide beaches facing the Atlantic.
Anne-Marie Billault on the Costa da Morte © Jean-Claude Praire
…and sometimes some rather… unusual town planning!
Seaside resort on the Costa da Morte © Anne-Marie Billault
How the Camino changes the villages it passes through
In several rural areas we travelled through, we saw how much the Camino shapes the facilities for visitors: cafés, hotels and hostels line the route. This activity creates opportunities to meet people and brings income to the villages, while remaining just one part of local life.
Meeting tourists on the Camino Francés © Anne-Marie Billault
Enjoyable lunch stops and encounters.
Waymarking on the Camino Francés © Anne-Marie Billault
There are plenty of waymarks, but we still keep a map or a GPS track with us.
Pilgrims © Anne-Marie Billault
Pilgrims from all walks of life.
The terrain on the Camino by bike
EuroVelo 1 © Anne-Marie Billault
Er… by bike, not really! There are long, gentle gradients and quite a lot of climbing. I admit I was surprised. Our daily stages ranged from 50 to 70 km, and we carried our own luggage. Some steep climbs followed rocky paths. I had to manage my battery and really work my legs, despite the electric assistance. We pushed our bikes 3 or 4 times over short distances.
On the rocky sections we rode, a mountain bike would have been more comfortable than our hybrid bikes. The electric assistance helped us a lot, but we still had to put in the effort.
Crossing a river on EuroVelo 1 © Anne-Marie Billault
Choosing between walking and cycling
Personally, I enjoyed cycling from Logroño to León. The vast, barren stretches and sections alongside roads pass more quickly; you readily take a detour to visit a village.
Cycling from Logroño to León © Jean-Claude Praire
On foot, the same section takes more days, and the pace often makes it easier to meet people.
Statues © Anne-Marie Billault
The journey I would have liked to extend
Not being able to complete the entire Santiago–Fisterra route, which we had planned to cover in two stages.
Camino Santiago © Anne-Marie Billault
A film
11 Times Fátima
This film follows the pilgrimage of eleven women from a village in northern Portugal to the sanctuary of Fátima, covering approximately 400 kilometres.
Also discover seven stages of the Camino de Santiago on film, in an excerpt from the programme Des racines et des ailes broadcast on France 3.
A vast network of pilgrimage routes across Europe
Hiking from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Logroño © Pascal Quennehen
The Camino is a vast network of routes crossing France, Spain and Portugal.
Text credit © Anne-Marie Billault
Photo credits © Anne-Marie Billault & Jean-Claude Praire
