From Passau to Bratislava, a cultural cycling journey along the Danube

Arrival in Passau

One of the three independent cities in Lower Bavaria (Germany), Passau lies at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers. It is also known as Dreiflüssestadt (the city of three rivers) or the “Bavarian Venice”. Here, you can distinguish the three rivers where they meet by their different colours. The Danube has brown water, the Inn green water and the Ilz black water. One unusual feature: in Passau, the Danube has a lower flow rate than the Inn (the Inn is wider and deeper than the Danube).

Passau - St Stephen’s Cathedral © Richard Cordonnier

St Stephen’s Cathedral dominates the rooftops of Passau. Its organ is the largest in the world housed in a church: 233 stops, including 4 carillons, make up this monumental instrument with 17.774 pipes.

The “Veste Oberhaus” citadel, the former fortress of Passau’s prince-bishops, is an imposing building dating from 1219. It offers a magnificent panoramic view of the city. We will also admire the town hall (its façade dates from the 14th century, while the tower was built in the late 18th century) and St Michael’s Church (1677), formerly the church of Passau’s Jesuit college and now the church of the Leopoldinum secondary school.

We will spend two nights in Passau. Our hire bikes are two Schauff bikes, German-made mountain/city hybrids: sturdy and very heavy, but fortunately equipped with 3 chainrings and 8 sprockets. They are in almost new condition.

We have planned our route along the left or right bank of the Danube according to our interest in the various sites beside the river, or sometimes a little further away. Bridges, though few in number, and ferries will allow us to cross the Danube. Our route, covering 435 km through the Bundesländer (federal states of Lower Austria, Upper Austria and Vienna) and Slovakia, is part of EUROVELO 6, Europe’s longest cycle route, which starts near Nantes in France and runs to Constanta in Romania. 3600 km from the Atlantic to the Black Sea. EUROVELO 6 follows three of Europe’s major rivers: the Loire, the Rhine and the Danube.

We will explore Passau by bike: 25 km, with a 3 km climb to reach Veste Oberhaus, perched on a hill overlooking the Inn. We will have lunch at the Veste Oberhaus inn, on a terrace overlooking the city with a splendid view of Passau.

First stage: Passau - Schlögen, 51km

There was a very heavy thunderstorm during the night. It is raining at breakfast.

At 8:20 am, we set off under very overcast skies. We cross the INN, then the ILZ, to join the Danube cycle path.

OBERNZELL

On the left bank of the Danube. Obernzell is a municipality in Lower Bavaria (Germany). Its castle belonged to the prince-bishops and served as their episcopal seat. Today, it houses a ceramics museum.

JOCHENSTEIN

We will cross the Danube via the footbridge at Jochenstein Hydroelectric Power Station. Pedestrians and cyclists can cross the dam all year round (from 6 am to 10 pm). There are 90 steps to negotiate. An aluminium ramp has been installed alongside the steps so that bicycles can be pushed along it. It is back-breaking work.

Jochenstein Dam © Richard Cordonnier

Engelhartszell

Engelszell Abbey, on the right bank of the Danube, is the only Cistercian Trappist abbey in Austria. Located near the village of Engelhartszell in Upper Austria, it was founded in 1293. It is renowned for the liqueur (Magenbitter) produced there, as well as for its beer. There are eleven recognised brands of Trappist beer worldwide, of which 6 are Belgian and 1 is Austrian: the beer from Engelszell Abbey, where three beers were created: Benno, an amber beer, Gregorius, a dark beer, and Nivard, a pale beer. These beers are named in honour of three monks who served as superior or abbot.

We will enjoy a Benno in a small pub. Just before Niederanna, a downpour drenches the valley. We stop at a Gasthof for something to eat and to avoid getting soaked. After visiting Engelszell Abbey, we cross the Danube again at Jochenstein. We follow the left bank as far as Niederanna Bridge. It is the only bridge over the Danube between Passau and Aschach. It connects Niederanna in Germany with Wesenufer in Austria.

As we leave WESENUFER, a downpour forces us to take shelter in a bus shelter. Michelle falls. Her bicycle wheel failed to clear the small step leading into the shelter. Fortunately, the fall is not too serious. We are soon joined by a Hungarian cyclist heading to Linz, then by another Hungarian cyclist accompanied by three teenagers. After waiting for half an hour, we set off again in the rain. After 4 km, we reach the end of the stage.

Schlögen

Schlögen at sunset © Richard Cordonnier

At Schlögen, the valley narrows. The Danube encounters granite that forces it to make a 180° turn, and for the length of one meander, the river flows westwards again! This is the famous Schlögener Schlinge.

Second stage: Schlögen - Linz, 65km

We set off at 8:30 am. We follow the famous Schlögener Schlinge (the Schlinge loop). It is not very warm.

Average beer consumption in Austria is 108 litres per person per year. Austria ranks 2 in the world for beer consumption (behind the Czech Republic with 148 litres and ahead of Germany with 106 litres). Austria’s 194 breweries produce more than 1.000 varieties of beer. We will sample a Baumgartner, produced since 1609 in Schärding, not far from Passau, and a Hofstettner, brewed in Sankt Martin im Mühlkreis, not far from Haibach, since 1449.

Haibach

Haibach ob der Donau is a municipality with 1.300 inhabitants. It lies at an altitude of 528 m in the Hausruckviertel, one of the four historical regions of Upper Austria. The ruins of Stauf Castle overlook the village.

After Haibach, we see Neuhaus Castle on the opposite bank.

Aschach

The small town is mentioned in connection with the founding of the monastery at Kremsmünster in 777. Aschach has a historic centre with houses dating from the Middle Ages. The castle is the former residence of the Counts of Harrach. Lieutenant Colonel Count Franz von Harrach was responsible for protecting Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria-Este when the archduke was assassinated in Sarajevo on 28 June 1914. We leave the Danube to head towards Eferding.

Eferding

Eferding is Austria’s third-oldest town (1222), after Enns in 1212 and Vienna in 1221. It is mentioned in the Song of the Nibelungs as a place where Kriemhild rests, also known as Gudrun in Norse mythology. Kriemhild is the sister of Gunther (Gunnar), king of the Burgundians, and the wife of Siegfried (Sigurd). The Nibelungs, whose name means “those of the mist” or “those of the underworld”, are the dwarfs of Germanic legends. The Nibelungs were ruled by King Nibelung. This 13th-century legend, which recounts the exploits of the knight Siegfried, inspired Richard Wagner and his cycle of four operas known as The Ring of the Nibelung.

Between the Danube and the Innbach, long straight stretches bring us to a dam. We do not cross it. We pass the landing stage at Ottensheim but continue on our way to visit Wilhering Abbey.

Wilhering

The monastery buildings and abbey church of the Cistercian monastery of Wilhering stretch along the right bank of the Danube, upstream from Linz. Originally Romanesque in style, it became a masterpiece of Rococo art over the centuries. On 6 March 1733, the monastery, dating from the 12th century, and the church were devastated by fire. Reconstruction, led by a local master builder, Johann Haslinger, continued until 1748. Today, only a Romanesque portal, part of the Gothic cloister and two tombs remain from its earlier history. A cable ferry {it travels along a cable stretched between the two banks} connects Wilhering to the left bank and the village of Ottensheim. This ferry is located just before Wilhering when approaching from Eferding.

Ottensheim

Ottensheim Castle © Richard Cordonnier

Ottensheim is located in the Upper Mühlviertel region. Its highest point is the Dürnberg at 549m. Ottensheim Castle dates from 1148. It is now a private residence. After a coffee break, we take a cycle path alongside the busy main road leading to LINZ.

Linz

Austria’s third-largest city, the capital of Upper Austria and European Capital of Culture in 2009, Linz charms visitors with its old town. We stroll across the Hauptplatz, lined with attractive Baroque houses and palaces. The Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) stands on the square.

The cathedral is also worth a visit, as are the botanical garden and the galleries at the Ursulinenhof.

Linz - Yellow train © Richard Cordonnier

The Linz City Express offers a pleasant tour of the city, departing from the Hauptplatz. We will not be able to take it. It does not run after 18:00.

Third stage: Linz - Enns, 38km

North of Linz, the Pöstlingberg can be reached by tram. The gradient is one of the steepest in Europe, reaching a maximum of 11,60%. The line was built in 1868. We will take it in the morning after an early breakfast at 6:45.

We stop for coffee on the main street: Semmel (bread roll) mit Butter (with butter) und Käse (and cheese) for Michelle and a slice of the famous Linzer Torte for me. Linzer Torte is usually made with jam made from red berries (or woodland berries), with a lattice topping. Its recipe is considered one of the oldest tart recipes. The first recipe for Linzer Torte dates from 1653. It was first written down by a countess in Verona, and her original recipe is now held in the library of Admont Abbey in Styria_._

We cross the Windegg bridge to reach the left bank and continue to Steyregg, 6 km from the centre of Linz. On the opposite bank is a heavily industrialised area. After another 8 km, we cross the Danube again at Abwinden. We move to the right bank of the Danube to visit St Florian’s Monastery_._

St Florian

St Florian’s Abbey © Richard Cordonnier

St Florian’s Abbey is a monastery founded in the ninth century on the site of the tomb of St Florian, one of the country’s most popular saints. Martyred under Diocletian, he is the patron saint of Upper Austria and Linz. Rebuilt in the seventeenth century, the abbey is now one of the country’s finest Baroque buildings. St Florian is invoked for protection against fires and floods. There is also a small firefighting museum on the grounds.

Enns, Austria’s oldest town © Richard Cordonnier

Built on the left bank of the Enns, near its confluence with the Danube, Enns is the oldest town in Austria: it was granted its town privileges in 1212. The town’s most iconic landmark is its 4-storey clock tower, built between 1564 and 1568 under the Austrian emperor Maximilian II.

This stage was short (38 km). We arrived at the hotel at 15:45.

Fourth stage: Enns - Grein, 57km

We cross the Danube again to reach Mauthausen on the left bank. We follow the River Enns and cross the Danube. To get down from the bridge, there are more flights of steps with a ramp for wheeling the bikes down.

Mauthausen

Mauthausen concentration camp © Richard Cordonnier

We cross the Danube again to reach Mauthausen on the left bank. A small town 22 km downstream from Linz, mainly known for the Nazi concentration camp located there during the Second World War. Of around 320.000 prisoners held in the Mauthausen complex throughout the war, only 80.000 survived. We reach the Lager (camp) along a steep road with a maximum gradient of 15%. I am deeply moved, my heart heavy. My father was a prisoner in a Stalag. He told me about his life as a prisoner. But he was in a Stalag, not an extermination camp. It helps us imagine the horror of Mauthausen, the madness of the tormentors, the insane determination to exterminate a people…

Back on the right bank of the Danube, we leave the river to ride for 13/14 km through the countryside and several villages: Sankt-Pantaleon, Erlau, Au… Only the sound of the wind disturbs the tranquillity of the countryside… Shortly before Au, a doe and 2 fawns cross the narrow road. We reach the centre of Wallsee by climbing a hill with a gradient of 12%.

Wallsee

Wallsee consists of four villages. Here stands the castle of Archduchess Marie Valerie, who died there in 1924. She was the youngest daughter of Franz Joseph I, Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary, and his wife, Empress and Queen Elisabeth, the famous Sissi. The castle is not open to the public. At Wallsee, we leave the Danube for 9 km.

At Tiefenbach, we cross to the left bank and reach the end of our day’s ride. The elevation gain for this stage, 303 m, shows us that we are doing more than simply “riding downhill along the Danube”.

Grein

Village of Grein © Richard Cordonnier

We visit Greinburg Castle, built between 1488 and 1493. The castle was purchased by Ernest I, Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha in 1823 and is now owned by a family foundation headed by Andreas, Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. The ducal family lives here, but the castle is nevertheless open to visitors.

Grein’s theatre is unique. It was built in the former granary of the town hall by the citizens of Grein in 1791. It is considered Austria’s oldest theatre. It remains in its original condition and can be visited every day of the week.

Fifth stage: Grein - Maria Taferl, 39km

We ride along a road or on a cycle path beside it for 11 km. After the villages of Struden and Weins, we cross the Scharlreith bridge to reach Ybbs on the right bank of the Danube.

YBBS

Bicycle Museum in Ybbs © Richard Cordonnier

A small town with just over 5000 inhabitants, at an altitude of 224m. The river of the same name flows into the Danube: it is a paradise for fly fishers.

Near the Danube cycle path, we visit the very interesting Radmuseum (Bicycle Museum).

In a café, we order 2 large breakfasts (coffee, orange juice, 4 slices of ham, 3 slices of cheese and 1 twisted bread roll per person).

We cross the Scharlreith bridge again. From time to time, we leave the Danube to head into the countryside. We pass through small villages.

Persenbeug

Persenbeug-Gottsdorf, on the left bank, is known for its castle, formerly the private residence of Franz Joseph. The castle and its grounds belong to the Habsburg-Lorraine and von Waldburg-Zeil families, descendants of Emperor Franz Joseph, who gave it to his daughter Marie Valerie in 1916.

In Marbach, before beginning the climb to Maria Taferl, we sit down at a Café Konditorei for a coffee. As always, the coffee comes with a glass of water: this is a Verlängerter. The road up to Maria Taferl is a proper mountain climb, 3 km long, with gradients between 6 and 12%. Michelle pedals like a champion. We could have asked the hotel to come and pick us up. A van carries the bikes and cyclists. But of all the Gauls, the Belgians are the bravest… We haul our trusty SCHAUFF bikes up to the summit (448 m).

Maria Taferl

Maria Taferl Church © Richard Cordonnier

Maria Taferl is the most important pilgrimage site in Lower Austria, and the most important in Austria after Mariazell. The first church was built around a shrine dedicated to the Blessed Mother, which gave Maria Taferl its name.

The ROSE hotel, where we are staying, is magnificent. From our room, we have a 180° view of the Danube, which flows 200 m below.

Sixth stage: Maria Taferl - Krems, 65km

Klein-Pöchlarn

The Gothic church is mentioned in 1391. This small town was where Austria’s first “Bienenpark” opened, a park dedicated to safeguarding and protecting bees.

Emmersdorf

The town lies in the heart of Lower Austria, at the western entrance to the famous Wachau, a world-renowned valley, and directly opposite Melk. The Magdalenen Chapel in the centre of Emmersdorf is one of its main attractions.

Melk

We will visit Melk Abbey. Grand, magnificent… A bicycle parking area is available, with metal lockers for helmets and water bottles.

At the foot of Melk Abbey © Richard Cordonnier

Melk, on the right bank, is famous for its Benedictine abbey, built overlooking the Danube. The abbey was founded in 1089 when the Babenberg family decided to move their capital. Two towers, the only remains of the Babenberg castle, can still be seen. In Umberto Eco’s novel “The Name of the Rose ”, the narrator (the Benedictine novice Adso) comes from Melk Abbey, and it is there that he writes his account, many years after the events took place. Although the abbey was founded in the 11th century, the present buildings date from the Baroque period.

An unpleasant surprise awaits us when we get back on our bikes. The rear tyre on Michelle’s bike is flat. I make a poor decision: we ride very slowly to Emmersdorf, 4 km away, with the tyre flat. At a Gasthof, the receptionist phones Donau Touristik in Linz. We have to return the bike in the village of Melk, 3 km away, which we reach at a crawl, still with a flat tyre (although the bikes are sturdy, the pumps are of very questionable quality: the two parts of the pump come apart on the very 1st use). At the Hotel Zur Post in Melk, we exchange the bikes. But there are no bikes left with 3 chainrings and 8 gears. Michelle is offered a Dutch-style bike with a coaster brake and 7 gears. The road veers away from the Danube, and we pass through small villages along the Wachau Wine Route.

Wachau

This is one of Austria’s most famous wine regions, with 1.448 hectares of vineyards whose main grape varieties are Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. Vines first appeared in the Wachau around the 12th century, but the region only gained international recognition with the establishment of the association “Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus”, which brings together most of the region’s producers. The continental climate is moderated by the presence of the Danube. This microclimate increases the temperature difference between day and night, slowing the ripening of the grapes and thus concentrating their aromatic compounds. Another important factor in this region is the soil, which consists mainly of granite.

Aggsbach

Aggsbach, on the left bank of the Danube, comprises the hamlets of Aggsbach, Groisbach, Köfering and Willendorf. It was in the latter hamlet that the Venus of Willendorf, a 25.000-year-old figurine, was discovered in 1908. The original is displayed at the Natural History Museum in Vienna, while the story of the figurine’s discovery is presented at the local museum, the Venusium. All along the Danube, Weingarten (wine taverns), Biergarten (beer gardens), Gasthaus (restaurants) and Heuringen (rustic wine taverns serving food) welcome tourists looking for something to eat and drink. We will taste Heuriger (this year’s wine) as well as Tausendeimerberg (wine produced in the Spitzer Graben).

Spitz

As you travel through the Wachau, you can barely make out the small town of Spitz, hidden behind a curtain of fruit trees and stretching along the foot of terraced vineyards. Only the squat outline of the church rises above the rooftops, while the ruins of Hinterhaus Castle stand out on the wooded mountainside. Spitz has preserved its old houses, with their arcades and balconies. Schlossgasse, which leads to the 17th-century castle, is one of its most picturesque streets.

Sankt Michael

The fortified Church of St. Michael dates from the 10 century and was fortified in the 15 century with the addition of a defensive tower and battlements. However, the truly curious feature of this church is the seven rabbits sitting on the roof of the nave. How did they get there? A little legend explains it. One bitterly cold winter’s day, a storm swept through. Snow covered the valley right up to the church roof. That evening, seven young rabbits, chilled to the bone, came down from the Atzberg and sat on the church roof to rest. They were so tired that they fell asleep. During the night, the weather changed and a warm wind melted all the snow. When the rabbits woke up, they were stranded on the church roof with no way to get down. They are still sitting there. Over the years, they have turned into stone figures. Sankt Michael is the oldest parish in the Wachau.

Weissenkirchen

Together with the wine-growing villages of Joching, Wösendorf and St. Michael, Weißenkirchen forms part of the largest wine-growing community in the Wachau. According to legend, Riesling originated in this region.

Dürnstein

Dürnstein Castle © Richard Cordonnier

Still encircled by ramparts, Dürnstein stretches along a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube, in one of the most striking settings in the Wachau. This picturesque town is also known for its old castle, whose dungeons are said to have held King Richard the Lionheart on his return from the 3rd Crusade. We weave our way through the village, which is crowded with tourists.

On the way out of Stein, we look for our hotel. The map we were given shows the route from the Danube, but the Radweg (cycle path) runs through Stein further inland. The hotel is very modern. A woman accompanies us to the bicycle parking area. There are no bikes with 3 chainrings and 7 gears. But our host will call another hotel to find one for us.

Krems

Krems lies at the confluence of the Krems and the Danube at the eastern end of the Wachau. It was mentioned in 995 in a charter issued by Otto III, but a child’s grave dating back more than 27.000 years has been found here. It is the oldest grave found in Austria. During the 11th and 12th centuries, Chremis, as it was then known, was almost as large as Vienna.

Krems is the main producer of Marillenschnaps, an apricot brandy.

The Weinstadtmuseum, dedicated to the local history of wine, is housed in a former convent.

In the evening, we head to the old town (a 20 to 25-minute walk) to eat at the Hotel Zur Poste, the oldest inn in Krems_._

Seventh stage: Krems - Vienna, 87km

We follow the river KREMS for 4 km before reaching the Danube. After KREMS, a town twinned with Beaune (France), we cross to the right bank of the Danube at TRAISMAUER (197m). Traismauer lies in the lower part of the Traisental in Lower Austria. At the beginning of the 9 century, Traismauer was a large town in the east of Charlemagne’s empire.

The Baroque parish church has a long history. A tomb was discovered in the lower church: its size and the gold and silver in the clothing indicate that it was the burial place of someone of high rank in Carolingian society.

Between Zwettendorf and Tulln, we cycle through the countryside.

Tulln

The town is bordered by two rivers: the Große Tulln to the west and the Kleine Tulln to the east, both of which flow into the Danube. Tulln developed on the site of the Roman camp of Comagenae, established at the end of the 1st century AD on the frontier of the Roman Empire. From 1042 to 1113, the town was the residence of the Babenberg dynasty, predecessors of the Habsburgs, and therefore served as Austria’s capital before being abandoned in favour of Klosterneuburg and then, around 1156, Vienna. With its many parks and other green spaces, Tulln is often known as Blumenstadt, meaning town of flowers. According to the Song of the Nibelungs, it was in Tulln that Attila the Hun met Gudrun (Kriemhild), Siegfried’s widow. A fountain, the Nibelungen-Brunnen, commemorates this event. The Monastery of the Friars Minor now houses the town hall and the sugar museum. We stop for a meal at a Gasthof in the centre of Tulln. It is 11:45 am, and we have covered 47 km.

Klosterneuburg

Situated on the Danube, the town is separated from Vienna only by the Kahlenberg and the Leopoldsberg. Klosterneuburg developed around the abbey founded in 1114 by Saint Leopold (Leopold III of Austria), the patron saint of Austria, and his wife Agnes of Germany (1072–1143). The abbey became an Augustinian abbey in 1133 and is one of the oldest in Austria. Its estates extend to the outskirts of the Austrian capital’s north-western suburbs. The town is also home to the house where the philosopher Franz Kafka died. As we leave Klosterneuburg, heavy rain begins to fall. We shelter under a tree.

Vienna

We arrive in Vienna in the rain, at the end of stage 7, the longest of the cycling trip (87 km). We follow the Danube Canal, take cycle paths and ride along pavements: 2 hours 30 minutes and 14 km of difficulties navigating the city before we reach our hotel. The Imperial Riding School is an international hotel belonging to the Renaissance chain. It is a 30-minute walk from Vienna’s famous Ringstrasse. Many Jewish guests wearing traditional clothing are staying at the hotel. They have small braided sidelocks. They are presumably attending a conference in Vienna. A surprise awaits us when we enter our room. A welcome card is addressed to a certain Mr FISCHER, and there are three welcome trays, each with 1 cherry and 2 petits fours. The room has two enormous beds, each with 4 pillows. After checking with reception, we learn that this is indeed our assigned room: Mr FISCHER left his card behind.

We will spend two days in Vienna. On the first day, we will follow the famous Ringstrasse, along a dedicated path open to cyclists. We will cycle 16 km through the streets of Vienna. Along this Viennese boulevard, which celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, stand Vienna’s main and most beautiful buildings: the University – City Hall – Parliament – the Natural History Museum – – Schönbrunn Palace – the Burgtheater – the Imperial Palace – the State Opera – the MAK (Museum of Applied Arts) – the Jugendstil building (Austrian Postal Savings Bank) – the former Ministry of War – the URANIA Observatory – the Ringturm, the former Stock Exchange and the Votivkirche (Vienna’s 2th-largest church). We will stroll through the magnificent flower-filled gardens and enjoy the refreshing coolness of the enormous Neptune Fountain. 5 hours exploring a place of breathtaking splendour. A short detour to the Prater, Austria’s answer to the “Foire du Trône” funfair, will round off our visit to Vienna (U-Bahn lines 1 and 4 will take us there).

Vienna - Schönbrunn Palace © Richard Cordonnier

At the hotel, we chatted with a Dutch couple a little older than us. They live in the southern Netherlands, near Antwerp. When he was young, the husband had cycled with his brother to the Gileppe Dam. They had stayed at a campsite in Membach near the river (the Vesdre) and had been evacuated following floods. His memories are very vivid. Our hotel building was erected in 1850. It was a school and barracks for the imperial cavalry regiments (hence the hotel’s name). Later, it was occupied by the postal service. In 1988, it was converted permanently into a hotel. Behind the hotel stands the magnificent and immense Russian church.

In Vienna, we had dinner at the hotel on the first and 2th evenings. On the 3th evening, we dined at the Vienna Classic restaurant on Kärntner Ring. It was not easy to find: a waiter at the Grand Hotel stepped away from his duties to take us there, a few dozen metres further on, at the far end of a side street. The waiter at Vienna Classic hesitated to serve us, as it was 8:20 pm and people eat early in Austria. Eventually, we were served a three-course meal (starter, main course and dessert), accompanied by a nicely chilled Veltliner white wine. Throughout the cycling trip, we stayed on a half-board basis: in Grein and Krems, the hotels had no restaurant, so we were given vouchers for a meal at a restaurant in town (a choice of 2 or 3). In Vienna, we could eat either at the hotel or at a restaurant (a choice of 2 or 3). The menus always included a starter or soup, a main course and dessert.

If you are interested in visiting Vienna, you can also read our other article on the subject: Visiting the capitals Vienna and Prague

Eighth stage: Vienna - Bratislava, 78km

We leave Vienna at 8:20 am. 10 km and 45 minutes through the city to reach the left bank. The scenery changes: for a few kilometres, we follow a stretch along the Danube reserved for naturists. We travel for 40 km through Donau-Auen National Park. Most of the time, we follow the embankment along the marshes and oxbow lakes of the Danube.

Orth

Orth an der Donau Castle © Richard Cordonnier

Orth an der Donau lies in the centre of Donau-Auen National Park. The old castle houses the park’s visitor centre.

In Orth, we discover the last Schiffmühle (literally: ship mill) on the Danube. In this type of mill, the mill itself, its grinding machinery and the waterwheel are built on a floating platform.

Eckartsau

Nestled in a beautiful park, this hunting lodge was the last residence in Austria of Emperor Charles I and his wife Zita before their exile in 1919. Charles I was the last Emperor of Austria, the last Apostolic King of Hungary and the last King of Bohemia. He signed his declaration relinquishing participation in the Austrian government on 11 November 1918, the same day as the armistice and the end of the First World War, thus bringing more than 600 years of Habsburg rule over Austria to an end. One of the imperial couple’s grandsons, Archduke Lorenz, married Princess Astrid of Belgium.

We will not visit Eckartsau. The heat is oppressive: 38°. We cycle along an embankment for 23 km in a perfectly straight line and in full sun. We leave Donau-Auen and cross to the right bank of the Danube. On the bridge leading to Hainburg, a young couple on bicycles rides ahead of us. The young woman takes a hard fall, fortunately without serious injury.

Hainburg

Hainburg is a town of 5.878 inhabitants, situated just before the confluence with the Morava, at the foot of Braunsberg (the brown mountain), 50 km from Vienna and 15 km from Bratislava. It is also close to the ruins of the Roman town of Carnuntum, Devín and the three castles on the Morava plain (Hof, Niederweiden, Eckartsau). Hainburg is a fortified town, with medieval walls, fifteen towers and 3 fortified gates.

We cross the Slovak border at 4:00 pm. At the border, we chat with some young French Girl Guides. There are about forty of them, and they are walking from Bratislava to Vienna in 4 stages.

Crossing the Slovak border © Richard Cordonnier

Bratislava

After following a dual carriageway, we enter the historic heart of BRATISLAVA (126m) via a large cable-stayed bridge spanning the Danube. On the access ramp to the bridge, an elderly woman is struggling to carry her heavy shopping bag. Michelle loads it onto her bicycle. We accompany the woman all the way across the bridge. She speaks to us sometimes in German, sometimes in Slovak.

Built between 1967 and 1972, the Slovak National Uprising Bridge is the world’s seventh-largest bridge suspended by steel cables. It was designed with a single pylon supported by steel cables.

We head deeper into the Old Town. We arrive at 5 pm at the hotel, opposite the Presidential Palace and close to the entrance to the Old Town.

The thermometer reads 44°. We are dripping with sweat.

A very friendly hotel employee takes us to the bicycle garage and the luggage room and helps us carry our suitcases upstairs. Throughout our stay, this affable young employee, whom Michelle liked very much, will answer all our requests for information in perfect English.

We will spend a day exploring the Slovak capital, which lies at the foot of the Little Carpathians. We will first visit Slavín on the hills above the city. It is an enormous memorial dedicated to the 6845 Red Army soldiers who died liberating Bratislava during World War 2.

The entire historic city centre is pedestrianised. We will visit St Martin’s Cathedral and follow the “Coronation Route”, a trail marked by 178 heart-shaped plaques that will introduce us to Bratislava’s history. Eleven kings and seven queens, including Maria Theresa of Austria, were crowned in Pressburg (Bratislava’s former name). Bratislava Castle stands in the historic centre on a hill overlooking the Danube. From the castle, there are excellent views of Bratislava, Austria, and, weather permitting, Vienna and Hungary. The Old Town Hall building certainly catches the eye… Built in 1325, it is the city’s oldest building.

According to the travel guides, Grassalkovich Palace is watched over by guards in blue uniforms. We will not see them: perhaps the President was away. Built in 1760 for Count Grassalkovich, it now houses the Presidential Palace. Behind it lies the city’s most beautiful park, dotted with small fountains and statues. In front of the palace stands a fountain symbolising peace and fellowship between peoples. Its globe is inlaid with doves, against a backdrop of flags in the country’s colours.

On a street corner, we will listen to a fujara player. He is wearing traditional dress. The fujara flute is a traditional instrument of Slovakia; it was recognised as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2005. Michelle poses beside our flute player. A very friendly fellow, he draws his pistol for the photo.

A fujara player in Bratislava, playing a traditional Slovak instrument © Richard Cordonnier

Outside the Old Town, we will visit the Blue Church (the façade is painted blue, and inside the pews are blue…), as well as the churches of St Ladislaus and St Elizabeth. We will also pass the synagogue. In Bratislava, restaurant menus will give us a small glossary of “Eating and drinking in Slovakia”: Fristyk means breakfast, obed lunch and vecera supper.

Slovak culinary specialities

The country’s speciality, which is also its national dish, is bryndzové halušky (a kind of gnocchi made with potatoes, water, flour and sheep’s cheese, sometimes topped with small pieces of grilled bacon). I would try a serving. Very good, but very filling, like all the meals we would be served in both Austria and Slovakia. Zemiaková placka (a potato pancake) is also very common. In restaurants, it is served stuffed with meat and paprika. Of course, we must not forget cabbage, particularly delicious in the famous kapustnica (a soup made with cabbage, paprika and smoked sausage). These dishes are accompanied by local wines, reds such as frankovka modra and skalicka frankovka, or whites such as tramin cerveny and silvánske zelené. The Slovaks' favourite dessert is called palacinky. These are pancakes, sometimes flambéed with rum and filled with various ingredients such as jam, ice cream, hot chocolate, grapes, whipped cream or hazelnuts.

Slovaks are fond of beer (pivo). Bratislava’s cafés serve Zlaty Bazant, Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen and Budvar. Zlaty Bazant is brewed in Hurbanovo, Slovakia. The other three are Czech beers. I would enjoy Zlaty Bazant, which has an alcohol content of 12% and is served in 0,5-litre beer mugs. The weight of these mugs surely helps build the muscles of Slovak beer drinkers.

Bratislava is bordered by low mountains: the Little Carpathians.

The Carpathians

Separated from the Alps by the Vienna Basin, the Carpathians form their continuation. They are Europe’s largest mountain range, covering 162.000 km² (compared with 140.000 km² for the Alps). The highest peak in the Carpathians is in Slovakia’s Tatra Mountains: Gerlachovský štít, at 2655 m. The arc of the Carpathian mountain range begins within Bratislava’s boundaries with the Little Carpathians and extends for 1500 kilometres.

We would end our stay in Bratislava with a night-time stroll through the lively, illuminated streets of the Old Town.

Epilogue

After my cycling trips through the Alps, the Pyrenees and the Massif Central, I had suggested to my wife, Michelle, that she take part fully in a cycling trip. Instead of providing support by car, she would join me on a bike. The cycle route along the Danube from Passau (Germany) to Bratislava (Slovakia) was well suited to giving her a taste of the joys of cycle touring. We contacted the French agency Grand Angle because we felt it would be easier to discuss the arrangements with people who spoke French.

What will we remember from the trip?

We discovered regions of great beauty and buildings (churches, abbeys, private homes and administrative buildings) that showcase the ingenuity of Austrian builders. We also noticed the cleanliness of the streets and alleyways, and the care residents take to maintain and restore their heritage. We met exceptionally friendly Austrians: often, simply stopping was enough for someone to ask what we might be looking for. We also had confirmation that meals in both Austria and Slovakia are very filling, and then some.

We thought we would follow the Danube throughout the route. That was not the case. The cycle path follows the old towpaths, and where there are none, it heads inland; sometimes the route takes you along almost deserted roads. The route follows the Danube for about half the distance. This is no drawback: it allowed us to ride through beautiful countryside and lovely villages. In particular, it gave us the chance to follow the Wachau wine route and cross Donau-Auen National Park. We covered the daily distances without any problems despite the weight of our bikes: heavy, sturdy, German-made machines… We can also say that, from Passau to Bratislava, if you want to explore places on either side, cycling along the Danube is not all downhill. Over this route of 483 km, plus 40 km spent exploring Passau and Vienna, we climbed a total of 1959 m. We also pushed our bikes up the steep ramps of several bridges.

We also appreciated the flawless logistics, particularly the transfer of our luggage from one hotel to the next.

French is hardly spoken in Austria. I learnt German at secondary school 45 or more years ago. I had not used the language since a stay in Austria in 1994. But little by little, the words and sentence structures came back to me. I was therefore able to make myself understood for the most part. Michelle also took over in English whenever necessary.

On a personal note, I also came to appreciate my wife’s cycling ability, although I had never had the slightest doubt about it. The climbs to Veste Oberhaus in Passau and along the road to Mauthausen, as well as the mountain pass—for that is what it was—leading to Maria Taferl would have discouraged many people. Indeed, we saw very few, if any, cyclists on these climbs. On her bike, even when it was less suited to the terrain (see our adventure in Melk), she never became discouraged. A few times, I even tempered her enthusiasm to keep our pace more appropriate for long-distance cycling.

We returned delighted with this cycling trip exploring the Austrian Danube, and we were captivated by the beauty of the Old Town of the Slovak capital. Travel broadens young minds, as the saying goes. Trips like these offer those who are no longer so young, but are well prepared physically, the joys of discovery—an experience that brings you much closer to nature and people when you travel by bike.

Has this account inspired you? Discover our trips from Passau to Vienna with hotel stays, or with inn stays. And if you would like to discover another country, you can travel as far as Budapest in Hungary

© Text and photo credits - Richard Cordonnier