The largest of the sub-alpine massifs is also the most distinctive. For behind the powerful cliffs that border it on two-thirds of its perimeter, the Vercors presents a profile of plateaus and hospitable interior plains that welcome most of the villages and hamlets. And if deeply cut gorges are never far away, the vast snowy expanses stretch freely for kilometres, offering fabulous terrain for discovery.
Grand Veymont reigns over the Vercors High Plateaus © François Ribard
It is not surprising that the Vercors established itself in the Nordic world long ago, to the point of having hosted cross-country skiing events at Autrans during the 1968 Olympic Games. It is equally unsurprising that the Vercors has housed the Grand Angle agency’s offices for over three decades, which includes within its team seasoned specialists in Nordic disciplines and other cross-country skiing instructors. Whether on snowshoes or cross-country skis, immerse yourself in the winter intimacy of a massif rich in exceptional natural sites. Here are some of my favourite destinations in the Vercors. They all feature in the ‘snowshoes’ or ‘cross-country skiing’ trips you will find on the agency’s website.
Here is a selection of the most beautiful snowshoe hikes in the Vercors:
1. Bec de l’Orient on snowshoes at Autrans
North of Autrans, here is Bec de l’Orient.
From Bec de l’Orient, view of the Isère valley © François Ribard
You reach it from Gève and its superb Nordic skiing area or by going up the wild Nave valley. On this northern spur of the Vercors, the gaze plummets from 1300 m to the meanders of the Isère and the gentle hills of the Chambarans. In front of us, the Chartreuse raises its powerful southern buttresses while our walk follows the north ridge line of the Vercors, up to the Pas de la Clé, before a gentle descent towards the Gève refuge.
Gève refuge at Autrans © François Ribard
We are on the shoulder that separates the Autrans-Méaudre valley from the Lans syncline, very close to the northern edge of the Vercors. A vast pasture welcomes heifers in summer, in front of a landscape with postcard-like qualities, lining up the Alpine massifs as if on parade, between Mont Blanc and Oisans. In winter, magic settles on the cross-country skiing trails or in the powder that covers the forest floor.
On snowshoes in the forest © François Ribard
Bec de l’Orient is an itinerary of the snowshoe and wellness trip on the Vercors.
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2. The Molière plateau at Lans-en-Vercors on snowshoes
Snowshoes on feet, let’s head due south to the orientation table – often covered in snow! – that marks the entry into the pastoral area of Molière. A short climb takes us to Charande (1709 m) for one last panoramic display before a descent through the forest to the Col de la Croix Perrin.
At 1901 m altitude, the keystone of the eastern ridge line that unfolds its spectacular cliffs from south to north of the Vercors, Moucherotte dominates the Grenoble basin by 1700 m.
As you approach Moucherotte, the view opens up onto the eastern ridge of Vercors © François Ribard
It offers a spectacular panorama of the Savoyard and Dauphiné massifs vying for prominence in the photo. The ascent from the snow stadium at Lans-en-Vercors is an opportunity for a dream detour across the perched plateau of Ramées.
3. The Vallon de la Fauge at Villard-de-Lans
At the gates of Villard-de-Lans, let’s discover the secret Vallon de la Fauge, below the ridges of Gerbier and within reach of Roc Cornafion which dominates the scene from its 2049 m. This sumptuous tableau is closed further on, towards the south, by the second summit of Vercors, Grand Moucherolle, which overlooks the skiers of the resort on the 2000 slope from its 2284 m.
The Fauge sheepfold beneath Cornafion © François Ribard
Between us, in our enchanted valley, sipping tea in front of the pastoral hut of Fauge, what do we care about the bustle of the ski lifts! All is calm, silent…
We are not quite on the high plateaus of Vercors. With the cap of Château Jullien, the meadow of Herbouilly offers a striking foretaste of the atmosphere that reigns over the vast spaces of the natural reserve. Gateway to a very large Nordic domain connecting Corrençon-en-Vercors and Bois-Barbu, Herbouilly allows access to the heart of the protected nature of Vercors through the beautiful basin of Darbounouse.
The pleasure of making your own trail © François Ribard
4. The Vassieux-en-Vercors plateau on snowshoes
A leap of nearly twenty kilometres south sets us down near the village of Vassieux-en-Vercors. Again it is a very vast plateau whose edges we never tire of exploring. Beyond a thick forest frequented by dog-sled teams, we reach the southern edge of Vercors, at the point of the tumultuous terrain where the Drôme valley winds.
Snowshoes on the Vassieux plateau © François Ribard
Towards the west, the Vassieux plateau is the gateway to the high lands of Font d’Urle. Towards the east, our snowshoes take us up to Aiglette then to Chironne pass for a glimpse of Mont Ventoux, before reaching Rousset pass station.
6. The high plateaus of Vercors on snowshoes
Here is one of the main gateways to this sanctuary of nature that is the high plateaus of Vercors. From Rousset pass, one hour is enough to reach the great solitude of France’s largest natural reserve beneath the imposing slopes of Grand Veymont (2341 m), the highest point of Vercors.
On a pulka on the High Plateaus of Vercors in front of Grand Veymont © François Ribard
Everything seems to slow down, yet the snow is an open book revealing the life clinging to the mountains. Here, hare tracks; there, squirrel footprints or those of the mythical summit bird, the ptarmigan. Symbol of Vercors Park, the black grouse protects itself from the cold by taking shelter in an igloo. To prevent disturbance, several quiet zones have been established on the high plateaus and in other areas of the Vercors—areas well-known to your hiking guides. From unguarded shelters to pastoral huts, numerous routes await discovery on snowshoes or Nordic ski touring. Pré Peyret, Chaumailloux, the Great Cabin, La Chau or Pré Grandu… We pause there for a picnic or for an overnight stop, promising a fantastic night in an extraordinary world where the snow seems to reflect the stars, giving an unreal dimension to this remarkable place.
La Montagnette overlooks the Combeau valley © François Ribard
The most experienced will continue north to Corrençon-en-Vercors or south to Combeau, the two most extreme opposite access points to this territory whose riches you never finish exploring.
This route is also part of our stay The Grand Traverse of the Vercors on Skis.
