Patrick and I wanted to visit this island to see volcanoes. On this island, which is 25 km wide and 60 km long, there are 110 volcanoes and 300 craters. The most recent eruptions took place from 1730 to 1736 and in 1824. The eruptions of the 18th century were catastrophic for the island, as lava covered 200 km2 (out of 800 km2). In 1824, there were 3 new volcanoes.
Here is a typical landscape. But where are all those colours?
2 June
As soon as we land, we can already see several bare craters. After picking up our hire car, we head north to Mala, where we are staying.
Our accommodation at Lotus Del Mar.
Such beautiful colours right outside our door! Bougainvillea, hibiscus, Malephora crocea, etc…
Our garden and the island’s typical white houses
3 June
This morning, we set off towards Costa Teguise to climb Montana Corona (not to be confused with Monte Corona, further north). We use the route description from Grand Angle, but the path is easy to follow. At the summit, you need to take care because of the wind. (2h20 of hiking)
Montana Corona with its ochre soil
Our first volcanic bomb
In the afternoon, we head to the north of the island along the coastal road. We visit Jameos del Agua. The “Jameos” are collapsed lava tunnels. This place is an enormous cavity in the lava, transformed by César Manrique, the famous local artist. It is a magical place! Definitely worth a visit!
After our visit, we cross the “Malpais de la Corona” (by car, of course, as it cannot be crossed on foot). This is a lava field, a jumble of volcanic rock stretching for kilometres and dating back several millennia. The lava flowed all the way into the ocean, helping to enlarge the island. Swimming is therefore only possible in a few places near Orzola, the departure point for the island of La Graciosa.
The black lava of Monte Corona.
A little white sand in an ocean of black
At the northern tip of the island, near Mirador del Rio, here is the volcano responsible for the lava flow known to scientists as “AA”: Monte Corona. It is an old volcano with the village of Ye at its foot. On the right, we can see fields of potatoes and maize growing in the lava. A tanker comes to water them from time to time. The cliffs of El Risco de Famara are just to the right.
4 June
We set off to climb Monte Corona from the village of Ye. The climb to the lower rim of the volcano is very easy. Walking around the crater, however, is difficult because it is very windy and some sections have dizzying drops. We settle for climbing the small crater to the left of the main crater.
The dark red lava of Corona
Muriel in action
A little greenery at the foot of the volcano: vines sheltered from the wind by low lava walls
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On the way back down:
The orange flower of a prickly pear cactus
And the red of the nectarines
Aloe vera plantation
After an excellent meal at a small traditional restaurant in the village of Ye, we visit an aloe vera plantation. Aloe vera is a speciality of the Canary Islands and is used in cosmetics. We return to Orzola, where the steep cliffs remind us of Norwegian landscapes.
Punta Fariones seen from Orzola
We end the day with a visit to Cueva de Los Verdes. This is a caving tour through lava tunnels on several levels. Very impressive.
5 June
Our destination: Caldeira Blanca in the south of the island, in Timanfaya Natural Park. It is the island’s largest volcano. When we arrive in La Vegueta, there are volcanoes all around us. We easily find the car park at Mancha Blanca, and here we are in the middle of an immense lava flow dating from 1730–36.
Here is our destination: the volcano furthest to the left
It is an old volcano surrounded by black lava from very recent eruptions. To reach it, we walk for an hour and a half along a lava path through an indescribable jumble of black basalt, several dozen metres high in places. There is not the slightest sign of vegetation on the horizon. The older volcanoes, with their lighter-coloured rock, rise like islands above this dark ocean. They are called “Islotes”.
The information panels along the path use terms we know well: moraines, glaciers. Indeed, it really feels as though we are looking at a glacier tumbling downhill, complete with seracs. At the foot of the volcano, we begin the climb, which is quick and easy. At the lower rim of the crater, the view is impressive.
Caldeira Blanca rises to 458 m. The crater floor is at 144 m. Its diameter is more than 1 km. You can walk around it, but once again you need to take care, as the trail is not always marked and it is extremely windy. In fact, the wind blew 24 hours out of 24 throughout our stay, so we never suffered from the heat (an average of 22–25 degrees). You still need to protect yourself from the sun, though. In total, about 5 hours of walking today.
View from the summit of Caldeira Blanca
From the summit, we can see the more recent volcanoes responsible for the lava flow of 1730–1736
6 June
This morning, we decide to visit the cactus garden in Guatiza, designed by César Manrique. This is another magical place, bringing together cacti from all over the world: hundreds of shapes and colours.
No need for “Do not touch” signs
Patrick looks tiny!
We also visit the cochineal museum in Mala. Cochineal is an insect that lives on the pads of prickly pear cacti and is used to make a dark red dye.
In the afternoon, we set off towards the west coast and Caleta de Famara. The view of the cliffs of El Risco de Famara and the island of La Graciosa is splendid.
We take a long walk along the beach and admire the skill of the kitesurfers. As usual, it is very windy, and swimming is prohibited.
7 June
A big day awaits us. We booked a guided walk in Timanfaya National Park before the trip. At 9:30, we meet our guide in Yaiza, a village spared by the eruptions of 1730–36. Our route follows a track through a lava flow that was closed to independent visitors during our visit. Our guide takes our group of seven in a park vehicle to the start. Over the next three and a half hours, we circle the Tremesana Caldera, listening to Nino’s explanations and staying on the designated route through the rough lava flow.
We walk within a few metres of this spot. On the right is Tremesana, where farmers have planted a few fig trees, sheltered from the wind by low walls. We even eat a few figs.
At times, Nino makes the ground vibrate. We can feel hollow spaces beneath our feet, a sign that lava tunnels are not far away. Along the edge of the path, a few shrubs bring a little colour back to the landscape.
A blend of colours!
After a traditional meal in a small bar and restaurant frequented by local workers on Yaiza’s church square, we set off again for Islote de Hilario, in the Montañas del Fuego. A bus takes us on a journey of 14 km through the volcanoes along a tiny road. Quite a thrill!! The landscape feels like something from the dawn of Earth’s history. This is the only way to access this place. An absolute must, even if you are not a fan of group travel.
A fantastic blend of colours
At the top of Islote de Hilario, the heat is just beneath our feet! The park rangers throw some brushwood into a hole, and it catches fire within seconds!
Once back in Mancha Blanca, we take the LZ 56, having decided to get a closer look at Montaña del Cuervo. This was the first volcano to erupt in 1730. To reach it, we follow a marked path through the lava. Climbing it is forbidden, but we can walk around it and enter the crater. Once again, we are treated to a festival of colours.
After another full day, we return to Mala through the valley of La Geria.
This is a vineyard!
We are in awe of the colossal amount of work involved!
8 June
We decide to go to the market in Haría this morning. It is a very pleasant little town in the north of the island, known as the town “of a thousand palm trees”. In the background are Montaña Los Helechos and Monte Corona.
Then we visit the house of César Manrique, who came from Haría. After a tapas lunch at Haría’s municipal market, Mercado de Abastos (a very welcoming place), we set off towards Mirador del Río, on the cliff at the northernmost tip of the island. Along the way, it feels as though we are in southern Tunisia, near Douiret.
At Mirador del Río:
The island of La Graciosa, north-west of Lanzarote
The salt pans at the foot of the cliffs
The view looking south
It is a very windy place
9 June
Today, we return to Timanfaya National Park. In the morning, we visit the visitor centre, then decide to climb Caldeira Colorada, opposite Cuervo.
The path is easy to follow
It is quite steep near the summit, but poses no danger. We make our way through very light red lapilli.
The crater is filled with red and black lava. We do not venture inside.
An enormous volcanic bomb
We would have liked to get close to a volcano dating from 1824, but it is difficult: Chinero is inaccessible because it is within the national park, Tingaton is dangerous, and the 3th one has a large structure on its summit.
After the climb, we set off towards the west coast. We want to visit El Golfo.
It is a volcano that has been partly worn away by the ocean. Yet another striking contrast of colours. The lake is emerald green because of the algae in it.
Along the road, near El Golfo
On the way back, we pass the Janubio salt pans.
Beautiful rows of small white piles
10 June
A day in Arrecife and around Guatiza and Mala.
The Las Bolas drawbridge in the harbour
The volcanoes are never far away
Charco de San Ginés, where there are plenty of good restaurants
The natural pool at Guatiza filling up as the tide comes in
11 June
Our stay comes to an end. We leave the island after a journey through an extraordinary world.
