In late November and early December, my husband Jean-François and I explored the island of Mallorca, the largest island in the Balearic archipelago.
We found Mallorca’s Mediterranean climate pleasant even in winter.
We chose to explore the north and west of the island: sea and mountains
Here is our itinerary, largely inspired by our Mallorca trip: Palma, Alcúdia, Pollença, Lluc, Valldemossa, Sóller.
Route map © Florian Calvat, base map: GeoAtlas
Palma, the island’s capital
Palma de Mallorca © Fabienne Bonnard
We wanted to discover Palma first. As preparations for “Festes Nadal 2018” get into full swing, the city, the island’s capital and by far its most populous (400 000 residents in its municipality), is beginning to dress up with festive garlands and “Santa Clauses” climbing the walls of houses.
Even so, it is hard to believe that it is winter and nearly Christmas (we are more used to snow and cold at this time of year!), as the ever-present sunshine brings mild daytime temperatures of 18°C to 20°C, much to our delight throughout our stay!
Palma de Mallorca Cathedral, La Seu © Fabienne Bonnard
Strolling through a city rich in history, shaped by civilisations including the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Muslims and Christians, we discover its churches, its Gothic cathedral known as “La Seu”, truly the island’s architectural jewel, the Almudaina Palace, a building of Roman origin, its houses with sumptuous courtyards, and its Arab baths.
Palma is also a modern city, with an impressive harbour, 5 beaches and vast stretches of crystal-clear water.
Palma also has a cheerful, welcoming atmosphere, with its many cafés, restaurants and terraces. We certainly cannot resist the tapas or the local paella!
Our stay continues on the north coast: Alcúdia
The small fortified town of Alcúdia © Fabienne Bonnard
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Although Alcúdia is known for its Mediterranean beaches, such as Platja d’Alcúdia and Platja de Muro in the scenic Bay of Alcúdia, its old town is very well preserved and home to many historic buildings (cars are not allowed inside).
We chose to admire it on a walk along coastal trails, with some steep sections, but also stretches beside beautiful cliffs offering magnificent views.
At Mirador Es Colomer © Fabienne Bonnard
Cala Figuera, in northern Mallorca © Fabienne Bonnard
We continue our exploration further into the Bay of Pollença, following the magnificent winding road that takes us to the Cap Formentor lighthouse, with splendid views of the sea, the beautiful beach of Cala Figuera, Cap Formentor and the Serra de Tramuntana as it meets the sea.
We are now eager to reach the Serra de Tramuntana, the island’s mountainous region!
In the heart of the Serra de Tramuntana
Lluc Monastery © Fabienne Bonnard
Rock formations in the Serra de Tramuntana: the rocky landscape of Lluc © Fabienne Bonnard
We stop at Lluc Monastery, completely secluded in the mountains. Primarily a spiritual and religious site with a magnificent basilica, a museum and a beautiful botanical garden, it has also opened its doors to tourism, particularly hiking. Various types of accommodation are available, all facing the Serra de Tramuntana. A multitude of routes stretch out in both directions. We choose Puig Tomir (1103 m) for splendid views over the Bay of Pollença and Formentor. The hike offers quite a mix of scree, cliffs and a very steep climb, but once at the summit, what a view across the entire mountain range and the sea!
View over Lake Cúber, near the Col de l’Ofre mountain pass
The next day, we choose Puig de l’Ofre (1093 m), starting from the Cúber reservoir and passing through the Col de l’Ofre mountain pass. The route takes us through Mediterranean vegetation, with plenty of thorny shrubs and succulents, and there is always a wild goat or a lamb following its mother somewhere nearby! Once again, the views are superb, even if the sky has become a little too overcast for our liking that day!
Narrow street in the village of Valldemossa © Fabienne Bonnard
The Serra de Tramuntana is also home to beautiful, traditional villages, starting with Valldemossa. At an altitude of 400 m, surrounded by olive and almond trees, it is the most visited village on the island. Once a favourite with musicians (Chopin wrote 24 preludes here), it has plenty of charming little lanes and a magnificent monastery too. The small port of Valldemossa is also worth a visit, although the access road is extremely narrow!
Before reaching Sóller, a stop in the village of Deià is a must. Perched on a rocky promontory, it overlooks the sea. It is also known as the “village of artists”, as many painters, musicians and actors have stayed here.
Sóller tram © Fabienne Bonnard
Our final stop takes us to Sóller and Port de Sóller. The climate is particularly favourable for growing crops. The area could also be called the “Valley of Gold” because of the number of lemon trees growing here, along with orange trees, olive groves, almond trees and extensive terraced farmland.
The old town, with its old-fashioned charm, has a star attraction: a tram linking Sóller to Port de Sóller. It also has a lovely railway station, from which a vintage train runs to Palma, taking around 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Port de Sóller © Fabienne Bonnard
We finish with a hike through farmland and olive groves, admiring the magnificent bay of Port de Sóller from the Cabo Gros lighthouse.
We have already reached the end of our stay, which has flown by far too quickly! Of course, we know we are still a long way from having seen everything, and perhaps next time we will explore the island by bike. As well as offering magnificent walks, the island is just as rewarding to discover on two wheels, as on our trips: Tour of Mallorca or Wild and Authentic Mallorca. The roads are beautiful and not too busy, and the temperatures are mild enough to make cycling a pleasure!
P.S.: Our only regret, a very personal one, I admit, is that we did not visit the Rafael Nadal museum, or perhaps even run into him… He is one of my favourite tennis players, an island native nicknamed “the Bull of Manacor”, who, through his Foundation, has built an education and training centre in Manacor (in the east of the island) and does a great deal for his beautiful island and its people!
