Often overshadowed by its famous neighbours in the Cyclades, Kythira is an island with a distinctive character, situated where the Aegean and Ionian seas meet. Known in mythology as the birthplace of Aphrodite, it has preserved a rare authenticity, far from the tourist bustle. It is an ideal destination for those who enjoy self-guided walking, with a network of waymarked trails crossing remarkably varied landscapes.
As lovers of Greece who know the Cyclades well, we chose to explore a new island this year.
Kythira stood out for its promise of beautiful walks and plenty of swimming in crystal-clear waters. And in the collective imagination, Kythira, which has inspired painters and poets, embodies an ideal. Let us not forget that the French expression « to set sail for Kythira » means « to fall in love »!
For this trip, we put our trust in Grand Angle, who put together a 9-day self-guided holiday for us. The idea: 4 different places to stay to cover the whole island, a hire car and daily suggested walks to follow on a dedicated mobile app. An arrangement that perfectly combines independence and peace of mind.
Arriving on Kythira
Although Kythira is not far from the Peloponnese, getting there takes some effort. Limited access is one of the keys to its preservation. From Athens, you can choose between a domestic flight on a propeller aircraft or a 6-hour 30-minute ferry crossing from the port of Piraeus.
As we were already in the Peloponnese, we opted to take our car on the ferry from Neapoli. After a 1-hour 15-minute crossing, we dock at Diakofti, the island’s main port.
Avlemonas: days 1, 2 and 3
Our first stop, Avlemonas, was a wonderful surprise. This fishing village, with its whitewashed houses, has a picture-perfect harbour and a fjord-like cove that is lovely for swimming. With a handful of tavernas and a peaceful atmosphere, it makes for a gentle introduction to the island.
The next day, we tackle the climb to the Byzantine chapel of Agios Georgios. A clearly defined but demanding trail, with 330 metres of elevation gain, rewards us at the top with a breathtaking panorama of the coast and the Aegean Sea.
Over the following days, our walks take us to beaches with very different characters: the broad sandy beach of Paleopoli, and the more secluded Kaladi beach, tucked into a spectacular rocky cove. By setting off early in the morning, we had this little paradise all to ourselves.
Chora and Kapsali: days 4 and 5
We drive to Chora, the island’s capital. Perched on a hill beneath a Venetian fortress, Chora is a beautiful village with immaculate lanes, though commercial activity is limited (few restaurants and a handful of stylish shops).
The bustle centres on Kapsali, Chora’s port, nestled in a twin bay. This is where you will find the beachside tavernas and where Grand Angle booked us a hotel overlooking the bay, with a magnificent view of the rocky islet of Hytra.
The trail linking Kapsali to Chora, with a return route along the mountainside, offers spectacular views of the bay and fortress.
Mylopotamos and Potamos: Day 6
We head inland towards Potamos, the largest village on the island, with its 350 inhabitants.
Our route notes first guide us to Mylopotamos. Today’s walk takes us to a hilltop Venetian Kastro, offering a superb view of the west coast and the Peloponnese, before descending to a waterfall and a series of restored watermills deep in lush green gorges.
We arrive in Potamos towards the end of the day. Life in this very charming village centres on the main square below the church, with its cafés, restaurants and shops.
Agia Pelagia and the north of the island: days 7, 8 and 9
Before heading to the northern coast at Agia Pelagia, we set off on a memorable walk to Paleochora, the former Byzantine capital of Kythera. Tragically destroyed by the pirate Barbarossa in the 16th century, the site is now a striking ghost town perched above dramatic gorges. The route reveals contrasting landscapes, alternating between pine forests and scree slopes. The trails on Kythera are very well marked, a valuable asset on these routes through wild terrain.
Back on the coast, Agia Pelagia is a small, family-friendly seaside resort where we enjoy the waterfront tavernas and beaches.
For our final walk, we head to Moudari lighthouse, at the northern tip of the island, which offers a beautiful view of Cape Malea and the Peloponnese. One last swim and a Greek salad in the nearby small fishing harbour of Karavas round off our stay.
Yes, we fell in love with Kythera: it is unspoilt by mass tourism, authentic, and offers an incredible variety of landscapes. It is a gem that invites you to enjoy a slower pace of life, a change of scenery and a chance to switch off.
And the itinerary designed by Grand Angle was perfect for discovering every facet of the island on this getaway in Greece.
Grand Angle’s tips for your walking holiday on Kythera
- The best time to visit: Spring (April-June) is ideal for enjoying nature in bloom and mild temperatures for hiking. Autumn (September-October) is also an excellent season, with the sea still warm and fewer visitors.
- Equipment: Good walking shoes are essential. The trails are often rocky. Remember to bring enough water, a hat and sunscreen, as shade can be scarce on some sections.
- The Grand Angle experience: The car hire included in our holidays gives you maximum flexibility to explore the island at your own pace. The digital route guide, available through an app, provides precise guidance along the trails and helps you make sure you don’t miss any points of interest.
